Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i have spent about 3 hours searching through the forum but can't find what i am looking for..

Could you guys recommend me a good clutch..i had my eyes on an exedy heavy duty but was told by a machanic that they don't last long about 12 months max. he recommended extreme but they are like $300 extra..

What i want is a clutch that last me the longest because it is a bit of a pain replacing them all the time..

what you guys think is a good clutch that last but not to difficult to drive?

thanks in advance..

ps. i got a GTST -II and in melbourne..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106603-what-clutch-do-you-guys-recommend/
Share on other sites

If you read what he was saying, you'd see he didn't want to spend $300 more on the xtreme.. so of course he would want a jim berry ;)

Well unfortunately if you're on a budget, your options are a little more limited.

There is an Xtreme full face organic for around $350.. which would do probably do the trick. Best to speak to Xtreme Sales, to ask what you might need and they will put you in touch with a local distributor who can give you a price :D

Thanks guys..

i knew about the Jim Berry but he's in qld.. and i m in vic..

i rather pay abit extra for something that last longer..and still drivable in city traffic.

i am willing to pay up to $1000 (fitted) for the thing .. any particular model you can recommend?

Thanks guys..

i knew about the Jim Berry but he's in qld.. and i m in vic..

We do have couriers and AusPost these days :D Seriously, that's how I got my clutch to Jim. Was about $30 through Express Post.

If you're willing to pay up to $1000, I would get the Jim Berry "Stage One". Its about $700, and fitting will probably be another $300.

i am willing to pay up to $1000 (fitted) for the thing .. any particular model you can recommend?

God damn. Exedy cheaper than exedy? That's news to me. For $1000 you can have an xtreme clutch. They're like $400!!

I have a 9puk cerametalic whatever with 860kg pressure plate. Pulling 200rwkw, goes fine, would buy one again.

Ok i have spent about 3 hours searching through the forum but can't find what i am looking for..

Could you guys recommend me a good clutch..i had my eyes on an exedy heavy duty but was told by a machanic that they don't last long about 12 months max. he recommended extreme but they are like $300 extra..

What i want is a clutch that last me the longest because it is a bit of a pain replacing them all the time..

what you guys think is a good clutch that last but not to difficult to drive?

thanks in advance..

ps. i got a GTST -II and in melbourne..

This is only my opinion on how to choose a clutch but I think it works really well. Once you've figured out what you want / need in a clutch, then pay a "decent" amount of money and get a "decent" clutch that meets your needs ( even if that means not getting those 24" chrome wheels for another 2 months :O ). If you buy the CORRECT clutch, you will enjoy driving your car more, the clutch will last longer causing less headaches in the long run and you won't risk causing damage to your car ( killing the pedal box welds, master cylinder or slave cylinder or killing the gearbox itself ).

Honestly answer questions like..........

- What power do I want it to handle ?

- Where do I do most of my driving ? ( Cruising, Commuting, Drag Racing etc. )

- What is my driving style ? ( Smooth, Agressive, Both etc. )

- What kind of pedal feel do I want ? ( Heavy Button Style, Progressive/Stockish, Progressive/Heavy etc. )

- What CAN I honestly afford ? ( 24" rims scenario )

Once you know what you need, find out what's available that meets your needs ( heaps of guys on here can recommend something that fits your needs once you are specific about what you want ) and then buy it. Do this instead of saying "I've got $500 to spend on a clutch. What's the best I can get ?" and you'll be a lot happier in the long run.

:end rant: :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...