Jump to content
SAU Community

Dyno Sheet For R34 - Scrutineering

nuffsaid

By nuffsaid,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bluprint Veteran

Bluprint

Posted
Posted

Here's mine, I went through home at lunchtime so I e-mailed it to myself at work

The engine isn't in an R34, it's in an R31 but it's much of a muchness I guess.

Only mods are a full 3" mandrel exhaust from turbo back (non split dump) and high flow cat, Just Jap 600x300 FMIC and a Blitz pod. Stock boost and stock ECU.

It's pretty similar to yours, I wouldn't be worried that yours is weak or anything.

Was yours dyno'd in 4th gear?

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

You should have dynod car before you modified it, then you would no if you made any improvement, probably best not to shoot your mouth off as you have no idea what car made in stock form. if you are seeing an extra 2 pound of boost, the exhaust mod is clearly working. Put some boost in it and the dump pipe will come into its own.

Oh so I am making 10psi with this setup? Fair enough then, no need for EBC or boost tap then haha

I know its a linear curve and all which is good for a stockish car. I dont have a pod, just a apexi panel filter. And I dont think Im making 25psi, I believe its 10? Correct me if I am wrong hahah And with regards to BATMBLs pipes, doesnt seem like it made much of a difference, maybe its just my setup but the 16rwkw claim for the dump pipe alone just doesnt add up with my sums.

I expected:

10-15 from the split dump

maybe 5-10 for the cat

and another 5-10 for the cat back.

So worst case should be a 20rwkw gain, best case, 30ish??

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

I heard somewhere that for every 1PSI of boost wound up; it works out to being 11rwkw more :)

I'm running 200rwkw on 7psi now; can't wait to wind it up to 18psi :)

As people have said, just crank up the boost!

  • 11 months later...
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Yes, it's an old thread, I know, I was looking for something else entirely (looking for dyno graphs from a certain workshop to compare with)

Anyway, I noticed on the first dyno graph that has been posted, the car has been run in the wrong shootout mode. This WILL affect your power read out.

The car should have been run in Shoot_6F, not Shoot_6.

This affects ramp rating, and internal measurements etc.

so_tred Proficient

so_tred

Posted
Posted (edited)

I didn't really wanna add to this topic since it's an old one, but how/why is the whole "should have been run in Shoot_6F, not Shoot_6" going to make such a difference, exactly? (without repeating the ramp rating etc - just a clearer answer)

Edited by so_tred

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...