Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I am new to this forum site.I would like to know what is the highest HP at the Rear Wheels produced by an Rb25 motor.

I currently have a GTST skyline and with the standard Rb25 motor and pumping out 498 Hp on 18 PSI.It is a manual skyline.I am running a Standard Motor,GT3540 turbo,Custom plenium,750cc Injectors,Hydra Computer,125 mm thick cooler with HKS style end tanks,3 " intercooler pipes, 3 "exhaust,Aftermarket coil packs.The engine has been run on the dyno about 150 times checking things and testing as i am trying to prove what the standard rb25 motor is capable of.

I am wanting to see who has made more hp.A dyno sheet is available and the dyno is on my own Dyno Dynamics Dyno running shootout mode.Intake Temps on the dyno sheet are 34 degrees and the room temp is 30 degrees.

Thanks

PS this is on Opitimax fuel.

Edited by LNEMUP498HP
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106775-max-hp-out-of-standard-rb25/
Share on other sites

Yeah buddy

im going to be using this car for drifting and drag.

Its my business vehicle.I own Wild 1 Motorsport along with my Father.The vehicle is going to get rego next week as while i was building it i ran out and yeah i will be driving it.

Yeah completely standard. I Have got another motor i am building with h beam rods, Forged pistons,ARP main,conrod,Head stud kit,Cometic head gasket,Tommie cams and springs which i will be dropping into the car as soon as something goes wrong with this one.I thought i will prove ppl wrong about the standard motor.

498hp on std rb25...mate that is impressive. Now we just gotta wait for someone to come along and say 'thats a load of the "proverbial"'

What sort of knock you getting on your current tune?

  • Like 1

i am going to put the new knock sensor on tomorrow.The old one would detect to many vibrations for the engine on idle.

When i used the stithoscope or however you spell it.The knocks were very minimal.I am going to using c16 in it and see the power difference.

As for the Dyno graph I will do it with Hp And Boost to shut ever one who doubts it up.

If no 1 believes its standard. They can pay me to pull the motor out and if it is they can pay me if it isnt i will pay them.

No 1 should Doubt the POWER OF a NISSAN RB motors.

Edited by LNEMUP498HP

Nice work on the power figure :D

GT35's tend to make power well.

I dont think standard means much at this stage...

Make it last 12 months with SOLID work... and make sure you post backup if its still running as thats the real test, one that no-one has passed.

No winding down the boost either :O

You so adamant about "shutting people up" what are you trying to prove?

Anyone can run big power in a stock motor. A few power on the dyno runs doesnt impress anyone but the 15yr old kids :D

I saw 500rwkw+ from an internally stock RB26.

Needless to say it lasted not very long at all and died a dismal death

LOL

turn the boost down

the boost isnt going anywhere.

as for the motor

if it blows ahh well

i got my back up motor waiting.I wanna push the engine to its limit

runing just under 18 psi wont hurt the engine the head gasket is the only thing i see wreaking and the engine is reving to 7500

i will keep every one posted on how the engine goes and lasts.

Edited by LNEMUP498HP

You still have a little way to go, I have seen 550 rwhp out of a ZeniTani built R25DET (standard internals) using a hi mount T78. But like all RB25's with more than 320 rwkw, it didn't last very long.

It's not about "how much" power, but for "how long" it makes that power.

I have a question;

Hydra Computer

What ECU is that?

;) cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...