Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R32 alternator has died and I'd like to replace it with one from a later skyline or a higher rated new one that will be a straight bolt in.

Mine is Hitachi and has 23100-59S01 LR180-705B on it.

I've been told it's 80 amps.

I can't get the parts to reco it.

Are the R33/34 ones compatable?

What other options?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/
Share on other sites

I don't see why not? If you can, have a look at the mounting on an Rb25, and sus out the wiring harness for it.

The two motors are pretty similar in terms of layout, and don't forget that some R33's had 2L motors in them too...

I doubt they'd be any stronger in terms of amperage output though... what "died" about yours?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1979234
Share on other sites

Interested in this also as running a few thermo's does tax the alt. fairly hard.

I have clocked 204,000km's, I am expecting to replace an alt soon.

I've attached pics of my 1992 R32 ALT.

Once warm my alt drops to 13.3volts under full load high rpm. Always check volts once warm as alt's tend to read higher volts when cold. i.e 13.8-14v.

post-382-1140819880.jpg

post-382-1140819888.jpg

post-382-1140819895.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1979249
Share on other sites

My R32 alternator has died and I'd like to replace it with one from a later skyline or a higher rated new one that will be a straight bolt in.

Mine is Hitachi and has 23100-59S01 LR180-705B on it.

I've been told it's 80 amps.

I can't get the parts to reco it.

Are the R33/34 ones compatable?

What other options?

The R33 alternators have a larger eyelet connector for the alternator output (B+) compared to the R32's. Simply means you will need to remove the R32 eyelet connector and use a larger one. I think the field wiring is the same although not 100% sure. I believe they share the same rating (80 amps).

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1979287
Share on other sites

Mine is an 1989, and its the Hitachi 23100-59S01... The one I have stuck to my RB25 has the same part number on it, unless its also an RB20 one.

FAST Lists a 23100-70T16 (newer is 17) for RB25 ?

I don't know what yours is Cubes - I think I did hear somewhere they sometimes came with Mitsu' ones.

I got my old one btw b00ster if you are having trouble sourcing one.. $100 + post. Worked fine on my r32.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1980046
Share on other sites

When I had my HR31 ( RB20DET ), the alternator died and I got a new BOSCH one that fitted straight up and worked a treat. It also had an externally removable voltage regulator ( very handy ).

I'll see if I can find the part number.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1981858
Share on other sites

Its probably only the first section of the number that matters. 23100.

We all seem to have the same first section of the number, just different last.

The 23100 is the parts 'group' - in this case the alternator, and its pretty much universal across all Nissan models. The second set of numbers identifies the specific model/year.

Anyway, alternators are pretty much interchangable across the RB2x range. I put an R33 RB25 alternator in my 89 R32 GTR. It has a 90A output. Pretty much bolted straight in with only slight differences in connector locations - no big deal. I also have an RB20DET alternator in my '87 R31 Silh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1981868
Share on other sites

I just fitted a brand new alternator tonight and now get a steady 14.2 volts.

I think my old one may not been working properly for a long time

Ever since I've owned the car it's been plagued with flat batteries and hicas light problems as well as the occasional misfiring.

I only spotted the charging problem after fitting a volt meter.

There was never any warning light. I guess the alternator was just making enough charge to keep the light from coming on but not enough to keep the battery from going flat.

I think low battery voltage might even have been the cause of my full throttle lean out.

I know it can make the fuel pump weak.

Can it affect AFM readings or shorten injector pulses enough to lean it out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1994548
Share on other sites

Where did you grab the bran new alt. from?

Nissan i remember were stupidly expensive so it must have been an aftermarket matchup?

Nissan quoted $880.

My local auto electrician sourced it from somewhere in Melbourne for $360 plus freight.

It has nissan stamped on it as did the original but no sticker with the nissan part number but apart from that they are identical.

If you want I can try to find out the supplier and their part number but they don't sell to the public.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-2007336
Share on other sites

That would be awesome... IF he parts with it. :P

No doubt it will help out all us SAU'ers at one time or another.

The bearings in mine are beginning to rattle a little, so it won't be long.

I have replaced bearings in alternators before. If you can do without the car for a couple of days it's just a matter of pulling the thing apart and pressing the bearings out. I think it cost less than 30 bucks for a front and rear bearing from cbc (one was an odd ball one so took a day to get). While it's apart replace the brushes which are easily gotten from any decent auto electrician and is usually whats at fault when they aren't charging properly. This was a mazda alternator though.

Total cost of under 60 bucks for what is effectively a new alternator.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-2013134
Share on other sites

Along the lines of what BHDAVE was saying.

Had a Toyota alternator that wasn't charging. Voltage below 12V

I replaced the brushes as they had just worn down so much (van had done 280k km).. cost me $25 to get new brushes in a brush holder. From local auto elec. The brushes are made to wear against the slip rings. You might need to just use ligth sandpaper on the slip rings.. But this worked a treat.

P.S Bearings were fine..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-2019936
Share on other sites

My voltage now stays at 13.8-13-9 with a/c ON and audio OFF. Will drop to 13.6-13.7 with audio ON. That's when the misfiring start again on idle. Planing to change the battery to a bigger capacity (60 or 70). Check Alternator charging & seem ok + healthy. U guys reckon its the battery size?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-2034118
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...