Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing Autometer Tacho In R33 Gtst

VT5spd038

By VT5spd038,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

just jump onto the tacho wire at the back of the dash cluster. use a test light to find out which 1 it is. it will be a thicker wire. just start the car and try all the wires with a test light. the tacho wire will flash (very fast) and if u rev it it will get brighter ( cause it is flashing faster)

SKYBEE Collaborator

SKYBEE

Posted
Posted

i might add a note when checking for tacho pulse it is important to use a led test light as these do not draw any current in which could harm igniter or ecu if you use a lighht bulb test light it could over load the circuitry causing failure

just my two cents

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

using a normal test light or an led test light won't make much difference. but it depends on that u are testing. testing the tacho wire between the ecu and the tacho will have less affect than testing between the engine and the ecu if something went wrong. and using a normal light would draw similar current to a monster tacho.

i used a normal test light on my last car when i was hooking a shift light up (still used factory tacho though. no point putting in a 5 inch tacho when there is already 1 there) and there was no problem.

fair enough to use 1 if your car doesn't have a tacho or the factory 1 is dead.

  • 1 month later...
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

just to help anyone out who is reading through, the tacho wire on the r33 ecu is a yellow with a blue stripe wire. when the ecu is still bolted in, it is in the top row (right hand side when the ecu is vertical) and 4th pin up from the centre bolt. its not the 4th wire, as some cars have different wiring configurations due to different options, but the 4th hole in the plug.

  • 5 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
drf76 Collaborator

drf76

Posted
Posted

i have connected my rpm signal to the ecu output which does lead to the back of the cluster, but i dont know if anyone has had the same problem where the tacho doesnt read right as the output from the ecu is a 5v square wave and the autometer tacho needs 12v square wave. is there a way to fix this without buying extra modules to convert the signals.

  • 1 month later...
vuey28 Collaborator

vuey28

Posted
Posted
i have connected my rpm signal to the ecu output which does lead to the back of the cluster, but i dont know if anyone has had the same problem where the tacho doesnt read right as the output from the ecu is a 5v square wave and the autometer tacho needs 12v square wave. is there a way to fix this without buying extra modules to convert the signals.

Yeah I have the same problem.. no idea how to solve it though.. hope someone has an answer..

  • 2 years later...
dave_rb20 Enthusiast

dave_rb20

Posted
Posted
just to help anyone out who is reading through, the tacho wire on the r33 ecu is a yellow with a blue stripe wire. when the ecu is still bolted in, it is in the top row (right hand side when the ecu is vertical) and 4th pin up from the centre bolt. its not the 4th wire, as some cars have different wiring configurations due to different options, but the 4th hole in the plug.

that advice is spot on.

thanks mate, helped me to put my digital tacho in by myself.

don't seem to have the same 5v versus 12v problems as everyone else though.

it's the $99 dollar one from justjap, inbuilt shift light too :)

  • 1 year later...
Stevoss Community Regular

Stevoss

Posted
Posted

This was one of the only threads I could find that helped with installing my eboost2 so I could use the rpm function. I didnt have the instructions which are on there website, but what I came across was when connected up, the main tacho stopped working. after putting a 2k ohm resistor inline to the eboost they both now work correct.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...