Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

just jump onto the tacho wire at the back of the dash cluster. use a test light to find out which 1 it is. it will be a thicker wire. just start the car and try all the wires with a test light. the tacho wire will flash (very fast) and if u rev it it will get brighter ( cause it is flashing faster)

i might add a note when checking for tacho pulse it is important to use a led test light as these do not draw any current in which could harm igniter or ecu if you use a lighht bulb test light it could over load the circuitry causing failure

just my two cents

using a normal test light or an led test light won't make much difference. but it depends on that u are testing. testing the tacho wire between the ecu and the tacho will have less affect than testing between the engine and the ecu if something went wrong. and using a normal light would draw similar current to a monster tacho.

i used a normal test light on my last car when i was hooking a shift light up (still used factory tacho though. no point putting in a 5 inch tacho when there is already 1 there) and there was no problem.

fair enough to use 1 if your car doesn't have a tacho or the factory 1 is dead.

  • 1 month later...

just to help anyone out who is reading through, the tacho wire on the r33 ecu is a yellow with a blue stripe wire. when the ecu is still bolted in, it is in the top row (right hand side when the ecu is vertical) and 4th pin up from the centre bolt. its not the 4th wire, as some cars have different wiring configurations due to different options, but the 4th hole in the plug.

  • 5 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

i have connected my rpm signal to the ecu output which does lead to the back of the cluster, but i dont know if anyone has had the same problem where the tacho doesnt read right as the output from the ecu is a 5v square wave and the autometer tacho needs 12v square wave. is there a way to fix this without buying extra modules to convert the signals.

  • 1 month later...
i have connected my rpm signal to the ecu output which does lead to the back of the cluster, but i dont know if anyone has had the same problem where the tacho doesnt read right as the output from the ecu is a 5v square wave and the autometer tacho needs 12v square wave. is there a way to fix this without buying extra modules to convert the signals.

Yeah I have the same problem.. no idea how to solve it though.. hope someone has an answer..

  • 2 years later...
just to help anyone out who is reading through, the tacho wire on the r33 ecu is a yellow with a blue stripe wire. when the ecu is still bolted in, it is in the top row (right hand side when the ecu is vertical) and 4th pin up from the centre bolt. its not the 4th wire, as some cars have different wiring configurations due to different options, but the 4th hole in the plug.

that advice is spot on.

thanks mate, helped me to put my digital tacho in by myself.

don't seem to have the same 5v versus 12v problems as everyone else though.

it's the $99 dollar one from justjap, inbuilt shift light too :)

  • 1 year later...

This was one of the only threads I could find that helped with installing my eboost2 so I could use the rpm function. I didnt have the instructions which are on there website, but what I came across was when connected up, the main tacho stopped working. after putting a 2k ohm resistor inline to the eboost they both now work correct.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Started sifting thru my brakes to decide which ones I will run on Clem   Made me think I should just put them all on Silver...for when brake fade just isn't an option   Should be able to bump rotor up from 343x32 to 348x36 off Supra. Not sure if the Supra annulus is right for the Alcons or APs but trying g to find a used Supra\M4 rotor to test fit The Alcons seem to gain 1-2mm clearance which all helps  
    • So car is getting a few mods to the cage and some jacking points welded in Meantime Ol Silver gets a new gearbox and shiny clutch.  Old Box is being set aside for Clem  
    • Probably speedometer itself if the odometer is ticking. If the needle is stuck from a bit of grease or something that can cause it to stay at 0. Or a cracked solder joint in the speedometer can do it too.
    • Thanks Fella’s   to take this off topic and to elaborate a bit more. I have an rb25/30 going into a r32 GTST.. expected to make around 600-700hp. Would you?   A) R34 GTT box   B) CD00#?  I’ve seen a few posts about the CD swap and sounds fairly involved with making it fit etc but if it’s worth the work then I’ll go that way
    • Lower at the hubs. Funny I forgot to mention that part. Do this pull here I turned the camera off too soon but the graph shows a drop at the top and that was because the pipe from the turbo blew off. The tuner said we could’ve made possibly another 15 whp. He also added if I switched to ethanol we could up the boost some more as well. I was comfortable capping it at the most of 20 pounds. Turns out the turbo pipe just needed a new worm clamp. Got home replaced that then did a third gear pull from 3k to 7200 rpm and the power was great to the top. I just got an ecu mounting bracket from IEE that I need to try and get everything to fit well. It’s a PITA to get the harness and ecu fit properly behind that kick plate 
×
×
  • Create New...