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Hey

im having major dilemas with my RB26DETT R32 GTR.

bad idle. no power sometimes.. power curve not smooth. drop out completely. and sometimes goes into safe mode and wont rev over 2500rpm. this doesnt always happen.. mostly after warming up and after comin off the highway.

i usually would pull over shut off and push the plug in and shes good for a while more.

the top AFM plug was faulty so i replaced the connectors yesterday and that worked for a day. but it dropped out again today after 30+kms on the way home.. so i drove it home in safe mode. played with connector.. re insulated it and pushed it back in. now shes fine fine. i even wrapped it with alfoil to stop the heat from getting to it. took it for a qucik blast and so far so good.

NOW.

my oil pressure guage shows just above zero! between zero and the first bar!.. im fairly alarmed bout this. think it is a electric problem.

anyone able to help me please. its no fun driving and lossing power like that!.. please help?.

my question is. why is it dropping power.. ther is a GOOD connection to the afm. could it be AFM fault? and why is my oil pressure so low (idling) not like this this morning.

im appreciative of any help.

mark.

to the mods.. sorry bout posting in the NA section. please delete that post. dnt knw how that happened.

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mine is doing the exact same thing and its completely random and annoying me greatly !! its going fine then all of a sudden it just drops out and wont rev over 2500 rpm then i turn the car opff and back on and then its fine. I took it to a workshop they plugged in their machine to it and it came up AFM problem but i dunno if its just a dodgy wire or something... extremely annoying !!!!

mine is doing the exact same thing and its completely random and annoying me greatly !! its going fine then all of a sudden it just drops out and wont rev over 2500 rpm then i turn the car opff and back on and then its fine. I took it to a workshop they plugged in their machine to it and it came up AFM problem but i dunno if its just a dodgy wire or something... extremely annoying !!!!

thanks for reply. its nice to see that its not just my GTR. does ur oil pressure guage drop too?

i was beginning to think that it was only my GTR doin this.

seeing as urs was an AFM problem did u have an engine light came up and what machine was plugged in? this info would be very helpful.

yeah my oil pressure gauge is sitting between 1 and 2 now where as before it would be between 2 and 3 ... very starnge although i heard the original gauge and sender arent very accurate anyway after being there for 16 years ... The machine was the snapon diagnostic tool , they plug it in under the dash of your car to a little port and it searchs through all your sensors and things and looks for faults

The factory oil pressure guage/sender are widely known for being inaccurate and slow. I had a similar problem with low readings on my car. $40 for a new (well, second hand) pressure switch fixed the issue.

Just take it to your local mechanic and ask them to stick a pressure guage on so they can tell if its the guage/sender or something more serious.

when mine is in safe mode.. sometimes it will idle at 1100rpm and other times i will hit 250rpm and fluxuate between 250-1100rpm and sometimes even stall :P..

ive thought of 1 way out of it.

1. power FC Dejetro, it can do away with AFM and runs map sensors in cyl 3+4. cost is $1500 for unit and sensors and then u got the tune dilema.. so gonna cost 2k to fix.. (im planning on doin this in future when i chase 500hp)

2. try different AFM and reset ECU.. that might work.

ive tried soldering new AFM connectors but problem still happens.

what i dnt get is. why my oil pressure guage reads between 4/8 during warm up. and 4 on highway but drops to 1/2 of first bar during idle when warm. and at the petrol station idleing later on it was running just below 4. if it was a shitty sender wouldnt it be shitty all the time?

want this fixed :)

with the oil pressure guage, the earlier r32 gtr's had problems with it(i own an r32 gtr myself). a guy i know has a 1990 nissan exa and the same thing occurs with that and he works at a performce workshop. all he said is if the oil pressure light acutally comes on then pull over ASAP and turn your car off!!!!!

sav man: replaced both AFM's im guessing not cheap? better to get it overhauled? how much for the afms? can u just replace 1 or have to do both.

Turbz_13: is the oil pressure guage needle sensor seperate operation from the red light? if it runs off the same sensor wouldnt it be an inacurate reading and can faulsely send off the red light.?

i might give nissan a call or ask around wher to get (cheap) afms

sav man: replaced both AFM's im guessing not cheap? better to get it overhauled? how much for the afms? can u just replace 1 or have to do both.

I replaced both, the RB26 ones are $800 each, or I got Nismo ones for $400 each (but you need a Power FC, or remapped ECU to run them). But you can replace just one. If you can be bothered, your difinatly better adleast trying to fix yours before spending money.

i was just told by my friend that they do have problems with the guage but the light is still accurate therefore if it comes on you have a problem.

i havent had any problems with my oil pressure. if you want to be safe then replace the sensor which is q sensible idea...up to u mate

with the wfm's why dont you replace with z32's??

Z32s require different ECU.. since doin my plug and wrapping in alfoil (looks ugly) the problem occurs less often.. im just saving for the PFC de jetro. fix the problem for good :rolleyes:

$800 for RB26 AFM!!! thats very $$$... better off buying a Haltec or Dejetro.

thanks for ur info fellas.

I ended up going PFC+Nismo AFM's cost me $2000 inc tune.

I was looking a the D-Jetro path, but that would only save ~$300. And $300 seemed worth it as i'd have garentied drivability.

Edited by sav man
I ended up going PFC+Nismo AFM's cost me $2000 inc tune.

I was looking a the D-Jetro path, but that would only save ~$300. And $300 seemed worth it as i'd have garentied drivability.

guarenteed drivability. ive heard they r a bitch to tune due to limited resources in australia. but once done its far more accurate than an AFM could be. the MAP sensor is direct manifold air pressure. not a vaccumed pressure like afm. i dnt get how it would be worst off than the PFC de jetro. maybe somethign i havent heard about? please share. :P

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