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Making R32 Gtr Full Time Awd?

jimbob
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Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

haha well the ones in my sig are the same, except they are locally made and supported, and nice and cheap at 350 brand new.

HKS do have a different model though, the drag adapter gives a constant front/rear split up to 50/50 - which is needed for drag since all the other controllers do not change the standard system in a straight line, only in corners

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

better not be lol....got a link?

50/50 split is not recommended for the same reason our controllers shouldnt be run on max for long periods of time......the transfer case is just not designed to slip for that long and it overheats really badly....we had trouble at targa last year on the mount arrowsmith stage, 100klm in the wet with heaps of front torque it overheated.

no problem for 10 seconds down a drag strip though

[WLDCRD] Mentor

[WLDCRD]

Posted
Posted

as duncan said....it tends to pooh itself! it'll do 1/4 ok but unless you break traction all the way, you wont need that kind of split. I only bought the HKS stuff cos none of these bastards made any local ones at the time (refering to duncan and dirtgarage). Now its just wank factor!

PHATR32 Grand Master

PHATR32

Posted
Posted

off topic, but can you fit a cooler to it so it doesnt over heat??

steve

better not be lol....got a link?

50/50 split is not recommended for the same reason our controllers shouldnt be run on max for long periods of time......the transfer case is just not designed to slip for that long and it overheats really badly....we had trouble at targa last year on the mount arrowsmith stage, 100klm in the wet with heaps of front torque it overheated.

no problem for 10 seconds down a drag strip though

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

hmm interesting....

they are definately not the controller we sell, at I guess I would think they are a direct copy of the Julian Edgar autospeed design.

But I note....

Their price doesn't include postage, instruction manual or connectors.

Control is via an analogue dial which we rejected early during development...they are too difficult to accurately change while driving...our up and down digital buttons and readout are more effective.

And of course without comparing them back to back I can't say whether it works as well, we have done a heap of work on calibration as well.

But I would guess it works on the same principle as ours, and would also make a big difference compared to standard

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