Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To remove spark plugs:

Step 1 remove engine:p

seriously,

1. remove inlet pipe from throttle body

2a. remove PCV hose between rockers.

2. remove cover plate (between rocker covers)

3. Unplug coil packs

4. Remove bolts holding coilpack frames in position.

5. Lift coilpacks up off sparkplugs.

6. Find you have the wrong spark plug socket, put it all back together, go get the right socket (smallish one), come home, pull it all apart again. :)

7. remove sparkplugs

I would start with (NGK) heat range 6, gapped down to 0.9mm. Since you're using coppers - dirt cheap - you can afford to have a couple of sets, so you could try a set of 7s later.

Not sure of the (NGK) part number, but its been mentioned numerous times in various posts - have a search.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10835-spark-plugs/#findComment-176899
Share on other sites

Yeah, its a bitch to check/change. I didn't realise until i did it myself.. pull half of the hoses and crap off the top.. The inlet pipe sucks the most..so many tubes comes off it. Eventually though you'll get to the bits you need..

If you are running 1.4bar apparently you need smaller gap, maybe around 0.7mm - mine is 0.8bar and have NGK BCPR6ES (coppers) set at 0.85mm and seems to do ok.

btw: check the maintenance forum for spark plug stuff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10835-spark-plugs/#findComment-177014
Share on other sites

Try some of these plugs. Will do 100000km no plug gaps to set and more horsepower and fuel ecconomy. About $20 - $30 each but well worth it.

What autos seem to do best with Halo?

Most Japanese and European makes of cars respond almost immediately to the Halo plug burn speed. They think this is due to the ignition control system logic, which we are told is primarily a Mitsubishi design in these types of automobiles. Chryslers have a fast learn computer which also seems to raplidly perform well.

http://www.haloplug.com

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10835-spark-plugs/#findComment-178307
Share on other sites

A trick when dealing with spark plugs - once you've loosened the plug with a regular socket, use a piece of 3/8" hose to remove / insert the plugs. The hose fits neatly over the ceramic of the plug.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10835-spark-plugs/#findComment-179817
Share on other sites

...or you can just get a socket that comes with the rubber fitter that grips nicely over the end, allowing you to pull it out easily.

you probably need an extender too because they are inset fairly low.. with the right tools its easy one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10835-spark-plugs/#findComment-179823
Share on other sites

Originally posted by GTR King

Try some of these plugs. Will do 100000km no plug gaps to set and more horsepower and fuel ecconomy. About $20 - $30 each but well worth it.

What autos seem to do best with Halo?  

Most Japanese and European makes of cars respond almost immediately to the Halo plug burn speed. They think this is due to the ignition control system logic, which we are told is primarily a Mitsubishi design in these types of automobiles. Chryslers have a fast learn computer which also seems to raplidly perform well.  

http://www.haloplug.com

Where can you get these from? You reckon they're better then NGK's? Do you acutually get better economy outa them?

Whats the right Skyline model number for these? Skyline isn't on the website

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10835-spark-plugs/#findComment-179913
Share on other sites

Originally posted by predator666

...or you can just get a socket that comes with the rubber fitter that grips nicely over the end, allowing you to pull it out easily.  

The problem comes after you put the plug back in - often, the extension pulls out of the socket because the rubber grabs too well on the plug.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10835-spark-plugs/#findComment-179914
Share on other sites

Steve: you're a genius. the human hand tool ! :P

I think it was hard to get the fingers in there to align it properly because how they are inset down in that little well - maybe i'm just unco.

For those that have never done it before: to gap them, buy a feeler guage from kmart, repco or wherver (about $10).. find the right pull out thingo (e.g. 0.8mm), or two that give you what you want. Slide them under the tip. Wrap a hammer in an old cloth (or use a rubber mallet) gently tap it down till the tip is sitting flat on the set guage. .. Slide feeler guage out..repeat x 6

anyway, i think this thread is getting redutant.. i am sure people can work it out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10835-spark-plugs/#findComment-181283
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

why not just buy a good quality socketset like i have

and u get a rubber/magnetised sparkplug socket

put the sparkplug in the socket and attach the extender bar without the wrench attached drop it into the hole

go anticlockwise till ya feel a click

then go clockwise and all is good

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10835-spark-plugs/#findComment-643635
Share on other sites

plugs are designed to start the combustion process and basically survive it.

Plugs don't by themselves add any power at all if you have selected the right heat range and gap. So go buy the copper units and save yourself some money. In the examples provided by some 'revolutionary plug' companies they spend very little time trying to find the perfect conventional plug to suit the application they are testing.

BTW the feeler guage is not to be subjected to bashing or crushing of any kind otherwise it ends up slightly thinner each time you do it unless you have two guages to use one for abuse and one to measure acurrately. Instead the feeler guage should move with very slight resistance between the electrodes (so it just fits in). The electrode can be pushed closed on a flat surface by hand (holding the plug) a little at a time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10835-spark-plugs/#findComment-644412
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...