Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive rung a few places so far, justjap, uas, and nissan. nissan want 500+ for a standard rb25det oil pump and justjap and uas dont stock the standard pumps.

if worse comes to worse ill be getting an n1 pump from justjap for 499 but does anyone know anywhere else that would have standard rb25det oil pumps?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108412-where-do-i-go-to-get-an-oil-pump/
Share on other sites

Yeah go new, heres a link to the club discount guy

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ndpost&p=974243

Powerplay did a oem airbox for a good price for me ages ago, give them a try maybe?

Steve: Troy at Nissan has left, and the new guys are useless

SECURITY: I really think you need to be sure about what you are dealing with before you go buying a new oil pump unless you are certain that your current pump has a problem, especially since you are obviously doing this on a shoestring budget.

Lift the engine out, and strip and reassemble it properly - without using assembly lube on the bores!

we're going to pull the oil pump off and have a look at it, if it seems ok then we're going to look at the clearances of the rod bearings.

but we put in new standard bearings, and the old bearings were standard so the only thing left would be the oil pump.

whats happening is its running, except ive got what sounds like a lifter noise. just a clicking in the head, but that could be caused by the thinner oil and a dodgy oil pump.

oil pressure rises to 30+ psi when its at around 3000rpm, so its got me stumped!

it was done right, just because we didnt have a workshop doesnt mean it was done wrong. and to the best of my knowledge the oil pump was fine so we didnt think of changing it.

it isnt a big problem. its either the big ends or oil pump. ill be changing both while the sump is off anyway. bearings cost me $60 so it isnt a big deal to change them to be on the safe side. im buying an n1 oil pump this thursday so it'll all be fixed over the weekend.

it was done right, just because we didnt have a workshop doesnt mean it was done wrong. and to the best of my knowledge the oil pump was fine so we didnt think of changing it.

it isnt a big problem. its either the big ends or oil pump. ill be changing both while the sump is off anyway. bearings cost me $60 so it isnt a big deal to change them to be on the safe side. im buying an n1 oil pump this thursday so it'll all be fixed over the weekend.

Mate you don't understand its got nothing to do with having a workshop. Take the engine out of the car, take the crank out and have it checked by someone that knows and has the tools to do it .You say you checked the bearing clearances , how can you do it on the car ? By using new bearings again its not going to make any difference if they are the same size as before .

You must have done something wrong otherwise she would be fine. If i was you i would check the piston to bore clearance too , it has nothing to do with oil pressure but it may have something to do with the clicking sound ( piston slap if the clearance is to big ) . You should also service the cil head while you are at it, saves you having to pull it off in the very near future .

im just going to leave it to my brother in law. hes confident he knows what the problem is, its too much of a damn headache for me.

thanks wrxhoon, hope you dont mind if i pm you another time if ive got any problems mate. cheers.

security I understand you are trying to do this cheap but I guess the point is you've done a commodore style rebuild on a skyline :D

I'm sure you want car that you can take back to the strip and trhash when you are finished, for god sake don't cut corners and end up with a problem a third time.

Take the motor out

Get the bottom end cleaned and tested and honed properly

Deck the block

Then have the bearing, piston and ring clearances checked.

Buy a new oil pump.

Get the crank measured for straightness.

Get it all balanced.

Get new rod bolts.

Get the right size bearings.

Check the ring end gaps to make sure they are right.

Make sure you have the right grade pistons for your current piston clearances.

Clean the bottom end out properly instead of leaving the shavings from the honing floating around in the block.

Shave the head

Get the head pressure tested

Yes I would know I've done it cheap and wrong myself.

Or failing that do what I did and install a second hand motor. The fact is you did hge damage with that melted piston but never cleaned the block out....

Good luck with it all ;)

I'm with Duncan & WRXHOON. Take it out and do it properly or you're pissing money into the wind. It's just going to break the way you've built it now there's been too many corners cut. You CANNOT build an engine properly, especially a high performance once, without taking it out of the car.

If you're not going to listen to the answers don't bother asking the questions, we're only going to tell you "I told you so" afterwards.

Good luck getting it sorted anyhow but for your own sake please take the engine out and build it properly.

Edited by d0p3y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...