Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I got some mod done to my R33, Gtst

-batml split dump

-r34 intercooler

-35 bucks boost controller,

-K&n air POD

-3.5" cat back

i boost it to 10psi, but somtime spike to 11 or 12,

I am not sure if it will hurt the engine,

i wan to check if any detonation occurs

how to tell if my engine is knocking or not? i did ecu diagnose, i got code 55, which means all good?

cheers,

darrien

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108617-how-to-check-for-knocking/
Share on other sites

knock sensors work in real time, ie while you are driving they will be reading "knocking" and sending that signal to the stock ecu. the stock ecu will deal with it accordingly. theres nothing you can do about it. the stock ecu will retard some timing when it picks up knocking.

to view the current knocking you either need an aftermarket ecu that supports it, a knock sensor reader kit, or apexi safc

is there any syphtoms or signs to tell when knocking become dangerous? without geting either a PFC, knock sensor kit, or Apexi Safc?

will get pfc but in distant future, funds not allowed. :)

hope i wont kill my engine by then. :)

if you can hear detonation or pinging then its bad, it sounds like shaking an empty can of spraypaint, but more of a tingy metallic sound. if you can hear it obviously back off, the cause of pinging/detonation is generally too much timing (or heat). if its repeatedly occuring try turning the boost down if its the stock ecu.

it does have the capacity to kill your engine or cause problems if left alone, however the stock ecu has "corrections" around the factory knock sensors (assuming they are working ok) which tell it to back off some timing (i presume) when it picks up certain levels

if you can hear detonation or pinging then its bad, it sounds like shaking an empty can of spraypaint, but more of a tingy metallic sound. if you can hear it obviously back off, the cause of pinging/detonation is generally too much timing (or heat). if its repeatedly occuring try turning the boost down if its the stock ecu.

it does have the capacity to kill your engine or cause problems if left alone, however the stock ecu has "corrections" around the factory knock sensors (assuming they are working ok) which tell it to back off some timing (i presume) when it picks up certain levels

There are usually 2 ignition and 2 fuel maps for hi and low octane fuel for most Japanese Cars (Nissan, subaru, mistubishi and toyota). Knock sensors in early nissans are only active up to 4000 RPM under medium to high load(not sure on r34 and above). That means that if it senses too much engine noise in this map area it will then use the lower octane fuel and ignition maps. If it still senses too much engine noise it will not retard the timing above 4000rpm!!

If you can hear detonation through the firewall then it will be doing your engine damage. A good way to check for detonation is to have a look at your spark plugs and ckeck the insulator is not cracked, also you might see some pitting on the edges of the plug - this is more common.

Edited by rob82

If you want to be sure, get some time on a dyno (half hour should be more than enough).

Do you have proper cold air feed for the K&N? This is the biggest risk to get knocking; the engine is hauling in hot air from the engine bay, and hot air is bad air for a turbo.

The ECU diagnosis only reports faults; unless there is an actual fault in the knock sensors, the ECU will report "all clear".

My R33 gtst knock sensor shows over 4000rpm. thats a load of shit

the knock sensor is still reading noise of course, but i believe he's saying the ecu doesnt act on the knock sensor input above 4000rpm. i would imagine this may be because the sensor is receiving lots of engine noise above 4000rpm, but i'm only speculating, i've no idea if it's true or not.

no that is not correct. the powerfc is the only ecu i know of to make the engine light come on when knock > 60 level (adjustable level in datalogit).

what rob said is the stock ecu won't "consider" knocking levels over 4000rpm. the sensor still operate, just the ecu ignores them. the powerfc honours the knock sensors and display it on the hand controller at all times, regardless of rpm.

My R33 gtst knock sensor shows over 4000rpm. thats a load of shit

THe knock sensor is still active however the ECU disregards any noise it may pickup above 4000rpm. I believe that nissan turn it off at that rpm as there is too much engine noise above that point.

THe knock sensor is still active however the ECU disregards any noise it may pickup above 4000rpm. I believe that nissan turn it off at that rpm as there is too much engine noise above that point.

Thats not quite true.

Though u are close.

I use the stock ecu and with conzult it will pick up any detonation. It will spit out a knock sensor fault(code 34) if knock goes past the set level. I have had it spit out the code well after 5k and it will pick it up well before you will hear it too.

It will still pick up knock well into the revs.

On the ecu's ignition maps the ecu has a knock(self learn) area but this area is where it will keep increasing timing till knock then back it off a bit(self learning area). And this area is in the lower part of the revs (4000rpm and less).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...