Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I believe as long as the modifications are reasonable and not dangerous they should be allowed.

It sucks, we'll always be fighting the law...

russ most ppl will think that any mod that gives u extra power is dangerous, wont they?

i dont think that its coz the mods could be deemed dangerous, rather, engine modifications alter emmision levels of your car

... but if they were that worried bout it they should ban all cars lol, and make everyone ride pushbikes to school/work

^^^^ doesnt mean you cant get pulled over , and then bent over taking it hard up the ass for a big ass turbo....

LOL

f**k that

no mods would be f**king gay, sif they can introduce that , although i dont believe if a TMU is able to give defects and not be a qualified mechanic seems bs to me.... but i know they car still do it....

im putting my money on the HJ's toilet :P

I'll be expecting your payment in full then.

Try DOTARS in their "National Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Construction and Modification" released on the 3rd of Feb 2006

Its basically the ADRs in a concise, easy to follow collection of documents. Not really much new, but worth a read in any case. Its not a new law or anything drastic, its simply a new guideline (and a clearer guideline for that matter).

The National Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Construction and Modification (NCOP) has been prepared by members of the Australian Motor Vehicle Certification Board Working Party in consultation with industry, user groups, government agencies and individuals with an interest in light vehicle construction and modification.

It is important to note that the NCOP is a "live" document and will be updated by the Working Party as required.

Please be aware that the NCOP only represents the technical requirements that must be met - administrative requirements are dealt with separately by each state and territory's administrative guidelines or business rules.

Administrative requirements include, but are not limited to:

* Registration processes

* Fees for processes such as registration, issue of temporary permits, vehicle inspections, applications for approval to modify, applications for exemptions etc,

* Determination of the date of manufacture for Individually Constructed Vehicles

* Processes for submitting applications

* Administration and management of modification schemes

* Administration of signatories.

The Preface and Introduction to the NCOP cover the relationship between the NCOP and jurisdiction's administrative requirements in more detail and should be read by all those who wish to use the NCOP.

Certain jurisdictions will need to make changes to their administrative arrangement in order to fully implement the NCOP. Prospective constructors or modifiers should contact the jurisdiction in which a vehicle is to be registered or modified to determine the most up to date information about the business rules or transitional arrangements that may be in force.

Kids, kids, kids...

Everythiing you do to modify your car from standard is potentially defectable. Sure - sometimes it seems petty - but thems the rules. Toughen up and deal with it.

Arnie did.

Sly did.

Even Carl Weathers did.

Van Damme and Segal didn't - and look what happened to them.

PS: i just spilt beer on my cat. I don't think she's impressed.

Regardless of what car u have and what mods its got if your in the wrong place @ the wrong time they will screw u over!!

A mate of mine decided to go to the marina to watch illegal drags, he thought he'd be smart and drive his dads Holden VT(which was a HOLDEN company car by the way) which at the time was practically off the producion floor, this was when VT's where brand spankers. Dang half the police force still had VS'!!!

Anyways he said to the cop to go for is life to find a defect, knowing that he was safe.

Your lights are mangled, apparently one light wasnt 'shining' in the wrong direction, nice yellow sticker!!

So not even HOLDEN company cars are safe, i dont think we are!!

Goes with the territory, u wanna be a pornstar, u may get aids or have 1/2 a dozen kids u dont know about!!

Its just the price we pay...

Guys, some info.....

Clicky:

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrne/vrne5n...A256FD300241C39

I also have a PDF file detailing all the mods u can and cant do to a car.....but not sure how to put it up on here...

Edited by R33_STEALTH
  • 3 years later...

I know this is an old thread, just thought I'd ad my knowledge. The onus is on YOU (the driver) to prove your car is legal. It doesn't matter whether the cops have a big book of stock figures right down to a 1981 Triumph Stag or whatever. If you're driving a brand new commodore home from the dealership, they can pull you over and issue you a defect notice or say they suspect your car of being illegally modified. It is then up to you to pay to have a mechanic/engineer check it for ADR compliance.

If this were to happen (and it's obviously anreasonable on the cop's behalf), and it caused you considerable stress or expense (missing work to have the car checked etc.) you could possibly sue Victoria Police (not the officer) under the tort of negligence. Don't take this as cannon legal advice though.

You can modify your car but it needs to have an engineer's certificate as, say you have an R32 GTST and modify it, it is no longer strictly an R32 GTST in the eyes of the law (and therefore is not a car with 'factory' Australian compliance). Unfortunately this really means major DIY work is more or less out of the question (legally).

'Repair' work is an exception. This is where it gets muddy and why we have courts to decide things. For example, if you were to 'break' your S13s SR20DET red top, and you needed to put a new engine in, you'd need to put in a newer SR20DET (like say from an S15). Don't take my word for it but I think you may be able to pass this off as a 'repair.' Just perhaps, the same as if you damage all four fenders and the front and rear bumpers of your S15 and need to replace them with say... a of C-West fenders and bumpers as you cannot locate any factory ones. Again, don't take this as advice from your lawyer, just an educated theory.

I'd suggest driving quietly and maybe putting some racing battery indicator triangles, CAMS bumper stickers and one of those 'touched by the road toll' stickers to try and throw the hounds off your sent...

Bla, even with the ever toughening up of the mod laws, I bet I can still drive my mum's Camry that has no cat, crappy brakes & worn out tires to Vic & still won't get a 2nd look from the cops...

Bla, even with the ever toughening up of the mod laws, I bet I can still drive my mum's Camry that has no cat, crappy brakes & worn out tires to Vic & still won't get a 2nd look from the cops...

thats because it aint an import

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...