Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All I'm saying is I too was just like yourself until the Core2 Duo systems..

For a 'normal' gaming system for some one with a budget they are far better off running decent brand cheaper ram like Kingston, supertalent or A-data and then pushing the $$ they save in to possibly more ram, better hard drive, bigger monitor or a cpu with a higher multi.

Upgrade have a play and see how much ram really does not affect the performance of a c2d system; $$ much better invested else where.

It really is considerably different to the old AMD's and how they really love low latency and fast ram.

With the C2D systems if you are squeezing the system and pushing over 400fsb (800ddr2) and max'd out the cpu's multi grab that quicker ram as its most definitely beneficial as it allows a quicker cpu. If not well its simply money wasted.

If you hunt around there's a few articles on the c2d system, latency, ram speed and fsb speed and how its all fairly immune. My findings are the same. Raw clock speed FTW. :P

Upgrade have a play and see how much ram really does not affect the performance of a c2d system; $ much better invested else where.

It really is considerably different to the old AMD's and how they really love low latency and fast ram.

Yeah but Im anal about stuff and I dont do it by halves. I just did a quick shopbot search for the components that I'd need to justify the upgrade and it takes me to $2k easily ;P Money I'm gonna be spending on new gearbox and buying the conzult/eee combo :P

-D

With respect to my system, which is what post was quoted with regard to DDR2-800 RAM - I'm not an overclocker.

I prefer to buy reasonable hardware that will do all I ask of it for as long as I want it to perform.

I don't need every last iota of performance from my pc, just something pretty solid.

With regard to the guy looking to build a new system - what are you looking to spend, and what do you have already that you can carry over, like a screen for example.

You say you want a gaming machine, but what kinds of games will you play?

I'm not having a dig at anyone, but people seem to find it very easy to spend someone elses money on a forum - you are the one that has to live with the choices - you don't have to spend $5k on a gaming system to have fun.

I recently spent...

M/board - $130

CPU - $90

4GB ram - $90

Vid - $100

Has no issues running GRID at 1680x1050 with medium settings; BF2 at full settings, COD4 at medium.

The cpu is clocked to 3ghz on stock volts (333x9); ram running at 800mhz.

Runs perfectly the young lad loves it in GRID; dropping burnouts and putting the brake on as he puts it. :P

It runs the games I like most quite well; COD4 and BF2.

Hell even Crysis it did damn well.

The system is not cpu bound so throwing a better vid card at it will no doubt increase in game performance noticeably.

Its still running on an old Antec 380w truepower that I recapped a couple of yearse ago due to the typical leaky fuji caps.

The PSU seems to be handling it well and given the watt calc requirements it should be perfectly fine.

Realistically the only time you require a topline PSU is when running the super hungry GX2 failing that a Seasonic 430w or 550 will cut it for all other applications unless your some hard drive whore. :D

Cubes, I have an Antec TP3 550 that died on me pretty early - I think it was still in warranty but I couldn't find the receipt.

Could you have a look at it for me possibly? - it's a brick at the moment so if you kiled it trying to fix it there wouldn't be any problem.

Would pay for parts and could provide incentive on request.

Would like to get some more use out of a $150 PSU.

Cubes, I have an Antec TP3 550 that died on me pretty early - I think it was still in warranty but I couldn't find the receipt.

Could you have a look at it for me possibly? - it's a brick at the moment so if you kiled it trying to fix it there wouldn't be any problem.

Would pay for parts and could provide incentive on request.

Would like to get some more use out of a $150 PSU.

No problems..

Providing its been powered off for a while pull the top off yourself and check out the caps; see if the top is bulged and or leaking.

If so then thats the cause. www.badcaps.net is where you can obtain good capacitors for an excellent price.

I've got some from there on a few occasions for various old motherboards and PSU's.

I've had a few other antec's let go in different manners in recent times.

One took out a new motherboard and burnt the PCB of the power supply. I was told 'after' the power supply was making a high pitched noise prior to letting go. If only I was told prior. :)

Another one simply died with no reason for it doing so.

So no more Antec's for myself they have done their dash. Seasonic all the way.

I believe some of the new Antecs are made by Seasonic. (neo etc) but still only genuine seasonic as you never know when they will change manufacturers.

did a recomendation and build for mid-life-crisie here

met him monday to build it, had monitor issues so finished at home, took it back yesterday

my old case, Soprano thermaltake

E8400 dual core cpu, lightly o/cd to 3.2ghz

2x 2gb 800mhz ram

asus p5ne-sli board, o/cd to 1420mhz ($150)

2x 160gb sata hd in Raid0 aray

thermaltake 750w toughpower psu ($190)

2x 8800gt galaxy gpu's, in Sli mode ($415)

sata dvd, g5 mouse etc

$1200

got 15000 3dmarks out of the box, 16000 with the 7.5% o/c to cpu/mobo

very nice for a budget

3 employees, one from microsoft, one from sun, and one from apple are in a restroom, at the urinals. when the microsoft employee is done he washes his hands, and dries his hands completely with like 10 paper towels. "at microsoft," he says, "we're very thorough." the sun employee finishes, washes his hands, dries them with 1 paper towel. "at sun we're very thorough AND very efficient." the apple engineer leaves without washing his hands, and says "at apple, we don't piss on our hands."

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
    • Light should be a pressure switch, not a sensor.
    • The pressure light likely has a different sender to a pressure gauge, its been too long for me to remember for sure. Just have a look for another sender down near the oil filter. If you are confident in your rewired pressure sender reading correctly, you can be pretty sure it is just the dash light's sender failing, it is a pretty common thing.
    • It would be nice to see the result, but instagram is a click too far
×
×
  • Create New...