Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wheels

Racing Hart CP-035

17x8.5+35, 15x7.5+40. Got this combination in to run large drag slicks/radials (can fit the 275/60r15 Mickey Thompson radials-28x11.5 inch- on these). $1500

Rays wheel nuts - pack of 20, includes socket - $150

Nismo extended wheel studs - pack of 10, 60mm long - $100

Suspension + Brakes

S15 Spec R front brakes/discs/hubs - near new, great for converting 4 stud to 5 on an S13 $600

Solid cradle mounts - New R33 $150

Tomei engine bay brace - Used, triangular strut brace, bolts from strut to strut to firewall $200

Turbos & exh manifolds

T67-25G turbo - Brand new, 8 or 10cm rear housing - $1800

Trust RB20/25 exh manifold - $1200, or will sell as a partial kit with the turbo, dump pipe, intercooler pipes for $3000

HKS RB20/25 exh manifold - High mount, T25 flange $1200

HKS 2JZ highmount twin manifolds - twin gates, T25 flange $900

HKS RB26 stainless low-mount manifolds - with crossover pipe - $1300

Trust alloy pipe kit - suit highmount single, from turbo to intercooler, intercooler to std RB26 intake. Has Trust type R blow off valve after intercooler, all silicon joiners and clamps - $550

HKS 2835R turbo - with internal wastegate 0.86 housing or 1.12 ext gate housing. $1200

SR20 stainless exhaust manifold and split dump pipe, new - $450

Diffs, gearboxs and drivetrain

R33 GTR complete rear cradle - diff, hubs, carriers, axles, suspension arms $750

R33 GTR + GTS-t axles - $80 each

R33 GTR alloy carriers, hubs, backing plates - $300

Assorted diffs - available, diff ratios 3.54 and 3.69

R33 GTR gearbox - good condition - $1,000

OS R3C clutch - used, alot of material left - $1200

OS pull to push conversion parts, run an R32 style clutch in your R33 - $150

Hi,

I'm chasing the metal intercooler pipe between the Twin Turbo pipe and the Intercooler on the passenger side and an R33 metal power steering resevoir.

Can you help?

Thanks

Stan

Impul - the Rays nuts are black

Stan - I've got both, will PM you

Black32 - I'll have a look, will have to open a few diffs to check.

driftking - yes they fit on an S2 GTS-t

any idea if the 33GTR gearbox will bolt into a 33-t? Know someone in dire need of a gearbox. Also, any idea of cost freighting it to Geelong Vic, 3220?

if it fits and can do a good price including frieght, ring Kris on 0421579800 an we'll sort out the finer details

thanks

Is the Trust RB20/25 Exhaust Manifold a high or low mount? I have a high flowed R33 GTST turbo with a T3 Flange. Do you have a pic of the manifold?

Abcent - GTR + GTS-t gearboxes are not interchangeable. Some internal parts are, but it's not a direct swap.

Mr Cash - Sorry, no RB20/25 stock replacement dump pipes. I do have a GTR replacement item, new, made out of titanium but thats $1200.

Xfixiate - I have a set of 6 std RB26 injectors, will PM you

Aridyne - The Trust manifold is highmount, and has a Mitsu 3 bolt flange

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
    • Very cool, see what I did there? 🥲 Wild WMI setup, first I've seen where it's on each cylinder runner, usually I see a single jet pre throttle.
×
×
  • Create New...