Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i was wondering if anyone knew of any hassles or precautions that may occur when fitting a rb25 to r32 gts4 , and any idea's or comments about engineers cert for it("does it need it"). also is it worth wild over looking the 26 because of cost and oppting for the 25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109142-r32-rb25-help-plz/
Share on other sites

PM Blind Elk...did the same thing you are considering, champ bloke who wont lead you astray with BS if he doesnt know...unlike me, who will tell you RB25s suck....p0pl who have put an RB25 in an R32 are probably the same ppl that piss all over the seat of the public toilets...i hate those guys :P

...p0pl who have put an RB25 in an R32 are probably the same ppl that piss all over the seat of the public toilets...i hate those guys :)
Oi. I represent those remarks :P

carl, put a RB25DET in, it will almost beat hands down a modded RB20DET. My RB20DET punched a whopping 115 kW through all 4; the RB25DET, running aftermarket ECU and crap 95 octane (Oz octane) and 10psi pushed 180 out through all 4 wheels. I figure that's close to a stock GT-R, and beats the crap out of those 5 litre lumps of cast iron V8 push-rod crap that can't even push that off the flywheel.

Oi. I represent those remarks :/

carl, put a RB25DET in, it will almost beat hands down a modded RB20DET.

Yeh yeh yeh...we know...But in my small galaxy the hot girls dont think they could ever be so lucky as to land a guy like me, thats the reason they ignore me...and the RB20 is god because i f i blow it up its $600 :D

Yeh yeh yeh...we know...But in my small galaxy the hot girls dont think they could ever be so lucky as to land a guy like me, thats the reason they ignore me...and the RB20 is god because i f i blow it up its $600 :D

Sounds like the planet where i live, but if my bottom end blows, its $100 :/

bottom end might be $100, but the adapter is $450 minimum.

mods to make it work on 4wd = another couple of hundred.

mods to the vvt head to make the vvt work = dollars.

oil restrictors to the head = small dollars

mods to engine mounts = more dollars.

new turbo due to 3L sucking your current turbo dry at idle = $1900 minimum.

to make use of this turbo and capacity, you'd want injectors, fuel pump and new tune = many more hundreds.

if you don't have the PFC already to run all this = $1000

New AFM to make use of all these goodies during the tune = $300 +

as much has I hate to say it, my rb30 dreaming days are over for the gts4.

I'm stuck with the ROYb20det.. :/

I've worked out I should be able to get to a REAL goal of about 200rwkw with about $4K and still have a drivable road car without TOO much extra lag.

I'll save my rb30 dreams for the future.. if I can be bothered.

so ROY - can I come back to the clan?

so ROY - can I come back to the clan?

Im not sure really, you seem for too sensible to become a blibbering RB20 POWAH idiot :no:

WHne im back in Syd next, take my car for a spin...im betting it will convince you to spend the extra 6 months spreading the cost of the RB309 over a longer period. I love my cars...its ace...but if you want grunty mid it just doesnt do the job

where do i get another rb20 for 600 bucks i just bought the rb30 and was gonna do the goods but i dont want to spend that dosh as my engine is lossing oil presure and has a wine at 1200 rpm and sounds like its coming from the 1st cam bearing (help)

where do i get another rb20 for 600 bucks i just bought the rb30 and was gonna do the goods but i dont want to spend that dosh as my engine is lossing oil presure and has a wine at 1200 rpm and sounds like its coming from the 1st cam bearing (help)
If you're in Melbourne, you bring a trailer and $600 round to my place - I still have the RB20 that I took out of the R32.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...