Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I was just wondering if anyone knows much about apexi turbos? I just found (after 6 months owning my car), that I have an aftermarket apexi turbo!! I never noticed as it's a low mount, and tucked away behind heaps of stuff! :/

Does anyone know whether they are a good turbo or not, compared to the likes of Garrett etc.

I'm trying to find info on apexi turbos but i cant find much at all.

Any help would be appreciated! :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109208-apexi-turbos/
Share on other sites

Hey,

I was just wondering if anyone knows much about apexi turbos? I just found (after 6 months owning my car), that I have an aftermarket apexi turbo!! I never noticed as it's a low mount, and tucked away behind heaps of stuff! :/

Does anyone know whether they are a good turbo or not, compared to the likes of Garrett etc.

I'm trying to find info on apexi turbos but i cant find much at all.

Any help would be appreciated! :D

You must have thought that the stock turbo on the R33 was pretty good!! It sounds to me like it would be a AX53B70 P25, I have one of these to go in my R32 with an RB25. I have not fitted it yet but the previous owner made 236 RWKW on only 12psi!!! The only other result I have seen from an RB25 is 268RWKW at 1.2 bar (But stay tuned mine is going on in around 2 weeks :D ) . I was told when I was looking around that this turbo is roughly equivelent to a HKS 2535 but in reaality it seems to have better response and a better top end. So in short yes it is a very good turbo! What other mods do you have cause your car should be obviously faster than a stock turboed car!!! I will attach some pics of my turbo (May help with identifying!)and the dyno graph from the old owner!

DSC03297.jpg

DSC03289.jpg

DSC03290.jpg

Dyno.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109208-apexi-turbos/#findComment-2011560
Share on other sites

Holy craaap thats awesome! :/

When I bought the car (from a private importer, i'm the first aus owner) the guy said "yeah it's got a stock turbo in it"

Other mods that came with it:

Apexi Power FC + Controller

Apexi Boost control kit for PFC

Apexi GT Spec Intercooler

Apexi Strut braces front+rear

Apexi N1 Spec Coilover shocks

Apexi Exhaust

I got it dyno'ed today at UAS at 185.2kw @ 0.9bar, and the guy said "Its in DESPERATE need of a tune (like 13-14 AFR all the way thru the range.. waaay too rich)" He also said "Has it got an aftermarket turbo?" when I said no, he said "Are you sure!? cos you have a VG30 Air sensor on there... plus different IC piping, so it looks like a bigger turbo has been on there at some point!" Hence, why I decided to look!!

I cant see the red tag unfortunately.. I wont be able to see it unless i dismantle half the engine bay! I may just do that for peace of mind

Thats great! what a bonus! Haha

I'm gonna get it tuned and boost it up then!!

Well bunta I hope all goes well, good luck with the install. please keep me posted on your progress! :D

Thanks for the info

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109208-apexi-turbos/#findComment-2011578
Share on other sites

do these turbo's fit up to the standard exhaust manifold and dump pipe flange?

my mates r32 rb20 came over with this turbo (ax53b70) and a stock manifold and stock dump/front pipe so its a direct bolt on 380hp turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109208-apexi-turbos/#findComment-2011661
Share on other sites

do these turbo's fit up to the standard exhaust manifold and dump pipe flange?

Sure do, If you buy new you get al the lines you need too! Unfortuneately I bought second hand and I am missing two water lines. But for what I paid for it I dont care!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109208-apexi-turbos/#findComment-2012213
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...