Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know alot of people have a misfiring problem in their RBXX's but I'm trying to find out if just throwing some brand new spitfire coilpacks in there should solve the problem?

I have checked the packs countless times, wrapped them in tape, cheacking for any signs of burns/cracks and have found nuthing.

The thing that I don't get is that it will happen one time, then another time it will be fine. Usually after being hot for a while is when it occurs in high revs..

Any help would be really appreciated :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109863-spitfire-coilpacks-rb25/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Assuming you've checked everything else like the plugs, the coil pack harness etc then go the splitfires.....I had the exact problem you describe (an on again/off again miss) changed to splitfires and solved the problem.

I wouldn't say there bling either....not that there was a noticable power gain (I didn't run it back to back on a dyno) but they are/were heaps cheaper than replacement stockies from Nissan.

yeah i've had a similar problem in mine for a while. I went and taped up the coilpacks and they looked clean to me aswell cat spew. Then i also replaced the plugs, but i later found out my plugs are too hot running plugs and they are 1.1 gap which is obviously not good.

:)

i'm going to change to the '7' heat range and 0.9 or 0.8mm gap and see if she comes good.

Fingers crossed..

:O

Splitfires are identical to stock.

Locally you can get them around $600 from some of our traders.

They are cheaper than Nissan, and obviously around 10 years newer.

The performance gain will only occur if your current ones are fruited.

If you dont have a problem then they are not worthwhile.

Cheap option could be get a mates one that works, swap one by one till the car mis-fires no more in big RPM... thats the fruited one :turned:

www.perfectrun.com.au have them for under $550 delivered.

I ordered mine through Perfectrun.com - they took 4 working days to arrive in Melb from Japan!

Just on 551 smackers delivered. You might get lucky though when ordering and they might have some in stock in Syd office, in that case you might get them couriered next day?

Cheers.

P.S They solved my misfire problem - I tried the taping up the coils originally.. and found it lasted for about 2 - 3 days! You wont regret the Splitfires!

[sKYWPN]

After under going some misfiring problems with my car lately. THINKING it was the coilpacks. it actually wasn't

this is the story,

Fridaynight PERFECT, running 1.3bar of boost without a beat

Saturday on the way down to Goulburn(wakefield) gave it some boost on the freeway misfiring all the way to redline. :P head down to supercheap at goulburn for silicon spray (before going to the track) still problems.

ON the way to wakefield from goulburn supercheap. the car was good again! hahah werid. anyways.

Car was running fine til around 3pm, damn it was hot that day 32-35degrees track/road temp! then at 3pm car started misfiring on 1.0bar of boost(didn't bother with high boost).

days later, car still misfiring, bought some copper heat range 7 ngk plugs, regap them to 0.8mm

(my old plugs have only down 25000kms they are iridiums-jap around 0.9-1.0mm can't remember)

TESTed the car. 1.0bar of boost it was fine (this is at night)

anything higher then 1.0bar of boost it misfired BUT not as bad just 1 or 2 jerks.

not happy :) thought it was the coil packs ($550 for spitfires from perfectrun)

then went to SAU dyno day.

high boost 1.3bar Misfiring ben backed off <knocking>

low boost 1.0bar misfiring ben backed off <knocking>

boost controller OFF! (10pounds) 180rwkw. not happy.

THEN i thought OMG, what a bad day. insurance for both cars due and need to save up for coilpacks.

BEFORE, taking this move and investing the big $$$ call my tuner he recommended and says HE always runs 0.65mm in most R33 gts25t with high boost. (1.30bar - 18-19pounds)

SO finally resort... regapped them from 0.8mm --> to 0.65mm

then out for testing............

1.0bar........ Smooth.........

1.1bar ...... still good

1.2bar. ..... not missing a beat

1.3bar.. BINGO!.. problem solved!. NO MORE misfiring!... SO HAPPY that it was my $24 copper plugs that solved the problem not coil packs for $550.

but then again thats my car.. different for everyone. doens't hurt to try though.

;)

my 2cents

Ray - The problem you had there is a COIL problem. By shortening the plug gap, you are simply reducing the amount of energy required for the spark to jump the gap. If you buy coils, you can probably regap the plugs to 0.8 or 1mm

exactly what my tuner said..

im running 0.6 since the boost was blowing the spark out at 18 psi...

going the split fires then back to 0.8 for me..

Edited by Craved

im just hoping that the splitfires will cope with 350ish rwkw on the rb30... dont wanna use these then have to upgrade when i can sell these as new :P

just trying to plan ahead..

but even with the miss i was getting, it wasn't audible really, just could notice the drop in power on the dyno..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
    • Any idea where I can get genuine MAF apart from used ones? I can't find any only for GTRs and unfortunately that price is not in my budget 🤣 I might gap my plugs down and put my splitfires in, they were only in for a year or so before I started the rebuild 
×
×
  • Create New...