Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That I bought from someone with the assurance that it was hiflowed, and just needed new seals. For the price I didn't really care whether it was hiflowed or not, basically just wanting to learn more about turbos.

ANYWAY, cutting a long story short, while knocking off the turbine housing, I broke the shaft, which I'm 99% sure is ceramic anyway (given how easily it snapped, it's colouration and the surface finish). Is there even such a thing as a hiflow that only replaces the compressor wheel?

So my question is, how can I remove the compressor wheel? The most obvious option to me is using an easy out tapped into the turbine end of the shaft, but I'm not sure how much the ceramic would let me do that. anyone know of any other possibilities?

cheers

Jeremy

Edited by jezzerrr

Since the turbines dead making the shaft useless all thats any good is the bearing housing and compressor wheel - if its aluminium . You could break up the remains of the turbine wheel and tack weld a cross piece to the flat bit so that it can be held and the compressor nut removed .

Or you could very carefully grind the nut and shaft away till the compressor can be removed though the burr may be a problem .

Its ages since I looked at a Hitachi with a damaged turbine . If enough of the steel section of the shaft protrudes from the bearing housing you may be able to slot it with a saw and use a large plain blade screwdriver in a vise to hold it still while you undo the nut . Two pairs of hands helps .

I'll have another look, I may also be able to get an easy out into the compressor end of the shaft, and undo the nut that way. if that fails, I'll try the other options.

cheers

Edited by jezzerrr
I'll have another look, I may also be able to get an easy out into the compressor end of the shaft, and undo the nut that way. if that fails, I'll try the other options.

cheers

Dont know of anybody who hi-flows and retains the ceramic rear wheel. Defeats the purpose.

GCG highflow consists of new cartridge and wheels (obviously) uses existing housings but profiles comp cover to suit larger compressor wheel.

yeah that's what I thought. may as well replace the biggest achilles heel while you're in there. I'm still not sure about this compressor wheel though... It's got two paint pen marks on it, one blue, one yellow (from memory), and it also has an N and an 8 cast into the wheel, on opposite sides of the wheel at the blade tip end of the wheel. The wheel also has a few chunks of alloy missing at the inlet end, I'm guessing from the balancing process as there are no scores or marks whatsoever to indicate that they went through the turbo. Given the 8 cast into the bearing housing, I'm fairly sure that it's not a hiflow wheel, but I could be wrong. The pen marks are the wierd thing for me.

Since the turbines dead making the shaft useless all thats any good is the bearing housing and compressor wheel ...

Sell it to someone whos been picking bits of ceramic out of their cat and cursing their bleed valve?

Sell it to someone whos been picking bits of ceramic out of their cat and cursing their bleed valve?

You will need the turbo for the upgrade, dont throw it away or anything, they use your housings.

If you dont want it ill buy it.

Edited by Bezerkly
yeah that's what I thought. may as well replace the biggest achilles heel while you're in there. I'm still not sure about this compressor wheel though... It's got two paint pen marks on it, one blue, one yellow (from memory), and it also has an N and an 8 cast into the wheel, on opposite sides of the wheel at the blade tip end of the wheel. The wheel also has a few chunks of alloy missing at the inlet end, I'm guessing from the balancing process as there are no scores or marks whatsoever to indicate that they went through the turbo. Given the 8 cast into the bearing housing, I'm fairly sure that it's not a hiflow wheel, but I could be wrong. The pen marks are the wierd thing for me.

If its damaged, it will have to be replaced anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...