Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by int21h

Nice work Rev.

How much did that set you back?

If you don't mind me asking, who or whats Nengun ;)

Nengun is someone that used to live in Perth but moved to japan. He has a little business selling aftermarket parts over there.... I recently bought my FMIC and AVC-R from him. He ships the parts pretty quickly and you can potentially save alot of money buying through someone like himself as opposed to buying the parts locally.

gts-vspec,

Might have a look at doing it myself. I've changed timing chains and things before, it's even easier when its a belt.

The key is to mark everything set at 0deg TDC and line it all back up.

The only thing I have never encountered is the crank angle sensor thingo. Anyone had a go t doing this themselves?

Who has had problems with installing the cam gear?

What do the tuners stuff up? Is it the timing position or do they damage parts upon install?

I'm just curious to know GTS-Vspec as it sounds like you have had some experience around this issue.

Originally posted by MrGTST

Nengun is someone that used to live in Perth but moved to japan. He has a little business selling aftermarket parts over there.... I recently bought my FMIC and AVC-R from him. He ships the parts pretty quickly and you can potentially save alot of money buying through someone like himself as opposed to buying the parts locally.

Cool, wish i'd known that earlier ;)

I just bought a HKS Type 1 turbo timer from PerfectRun. I'm starting to wonder if it would of worked out cheaper buying it locally.

Freight was the big killer at $40!! and it's been 3 weeks since i first ordered it.

I don't think there is anything particularly difficult or tricky, but some places are lazy and get apprentices to do this stuff, they tend to leave things loose or don't get the timing belt right, so it can be messy after that.

See'ya:burnout:

Rev if you have Issue No. 23 of High Performance Imports they go through installing Cam gears in the technical section.

The major point they make is :

"Be very careful; after each and every adjustment, turn the engine over by hand to ensure there is no interference between the pistons and valves. This can quickly make the whole task very expensive."

It also says to make sure the inner adjustment ring is set to zero.

And also to make sure that the bolts are nice and tight, so the gears dont slip position and make the engine stop.

Hope those little snippets of info helps ;)

If I feel game enough I'll put the gear in at home, and sadly dissapoint those guys waiting to see the dyno of my car.

Then again I might just let someone else get the cuts and scrapes and pay them to do it. In that case I will get the dyno time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...