Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bit generic question... starting = 1psi?

Also depends on mods too, a full exhaust will spool up a turbo quicker than a standard exhaust... more boost = earlier boost too...

If the car is dead standard or say just a cat-back id say that would be fairly close to right... maybe a few psi before 3,500rpm in 2nd but nothing too noticeable if its standard

Bit generic question... starting = 1psi?

Also depends on mods too, a full exhaust will spool up a turbo quicker than a standard exhaust... more boost = earlier boost too...

If the car is dead standard or say just a cat-back id say that would be fairly close to right... maybe a few psi before 3,500rpm in 2nd but nothing too noticeable if its standard

Yeah, car is stock :P Thanks for your help.

I'm think about getting a turbo back zorst. Is there a lot of gain by doing the dumps? or should i just spend the money towards a PFC?

I'm choosing between a PFC & microtech. Ive been told to go with microtech because it is more flexible as you do more mods but i'm not chasing huge power, just lots of response as this is more a street car. I've read on this forum that PFC is really good for what i want to do (zorst, boost up, PFC & tune). Which way should i go? any one had any experiences with both setups? What kind of power would this set up give me?

Also, is there any point in going a brand name zorst like blitz? To me, a pipe is a pipe & don't really care about minor power differences. I think the money you save can be spent on other mods which will give more bang for the buck, like a PFC.

Lastly, where can i buy the $22 boost contoller from? is 14psi really pushing the stockies?

Sorry about the long post :(

There is alot of hp to gain from doing a turbo-back exhaust system and Id look at that before you consider management! If your still not happy then throw on a boost controller for 1bar with a front mounted intercooler kit. Still not happy then go the power fc and tune, and maybe an rb25 turbo charger as its slightly bigger!

There is alot of hp to gain from doing a turbo-back exhaust system and Id look at that before you consider management! If your still not happy then throw on a boost controller for 1bar with a front mounted intercooler kit. Still not happy then go the power fc and tune, and maybe an rb25 turbo charger as its slightly bigger!

Does a 32GTR has a FMIC and it should be fine for the power i'm chasing. Also, bolt a rb25 turbo? just 1 of them? i was thinking something like 34 N1s or 2530s. but new turbos are a long way off atm. Can't justify the price.

The straight line performance is already getting dull but when i take the puppy around corners, even stock power is a lot to handle.

Thanks for pointing that out! I swear it didnt say GTR in the title before... lol

Yes i was refering to a GTST, GTR with a full exhaust and boost up with give you plenty of fun times :(

Is it worth it getting a brand name zorst? they are quite expensive & imo just a pipe like any other pipe. I've been quoted a full stainless zorst from turbo back (no dumps) for $900 for a workshop. Does this sound right? Also, what factors determine a good quality zorst?

I personally dont think its worth going a brand name exhaust, if hes said turbo back without dumps... well its not turbo(s) back then lol

Have a look on the forums for gtr exhaut bits, get yourself some dumps, front pipes, cat and a nice large (3.5') cat-back exhaust!

I personally dont think its worth going a brand name exhaust, if hes said turbo back without dumps... well its not turbo(s) back then lol

Have a look on the forums for gtr exhaut bits, get yourself some dumps, front pipes, cat and a nice large (3.5') cat-back exhaust!

How much difference do dumps make? i'm thinking of not doing it as the turbos have to come off.

Will bring your spooling time right down with some good hi-flowing dumps...

If your changing the turbo's fairly soon then maybe you should do the dumps when you so them, but your exhaust is only as good as its least flowing part!

Will bring your spooling time right down with some good hi-flowing dumps...

If your changing the turbo's fairly soon then maybe you should do the dumps when you so them, but your exhaust is only as good as its least flowing part!

I was thinking of changing from the front pipes & leave the dumps on until new turbos are on. Will there be much improvement with this set up? or should i do the dumps now as well

Id say fronts + cat + cat-back exhaust would be a 40-50rwhp difference? So your going to notice a shit load more power outta the rb26! Personally, those twin HKS style dumps are goin fairly cheap on the forum... id probably just grab some while your doing the rest

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...