Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All, I need to make a resistor pack for my RB20DET to fit in my GTR injectors and I am unable to find instructions... I am guessing they would be somewhere or that someone has done it so I would love it if someone would take to time to point me in the right direction.

I don't have a stock GTR resistor pack and need to get them in tonight / tomorrow otherwise Ican't get my car tuned with them this weekend :)

Thanks in advance!!

Dunno about making one, have you tried searching for it?

You could call an import wrecker to find a GTR one.. I also remember reading somewhere that you can use the resistor pack out of an R30..

doing a search would be your best bet on finding the instructions tho, if there are any..

Thanks mate, I can't find anythng concrete so I though someone may have done it...

I really need to have it and installed by Friday befor Dr Drift comes down (to Tassie) so I figure making one may be quicker than finding one and getting it here! (And a lot cheaper).

There's a wiring up guide done by ROY in the tutorial section, I dropped in new injector plugs/boots (To suit VL, VL inj. plugs are the same as GTR inj. plugs, 6 inj plugs/boots cost me ~$53) while I was there as it was a real pain in the arse to trim up all the injectors so the plugs were suitable.

With regards to making a resistor pack. Buying the high quality resistors that it requires will cost you all up around $100. You are better off simply buying a second hand gtr resistor pack for the same/similiar price.

OR... Do what I did and used an Aussy R30 Skyline resistor pack, R30's are everywhere at the old car wreckers. I've seen them go anywhere from $5 right up to a whopping ~$15. :happy:

  • 1 month later...

sorry to bring up an old thread...

but so its confirmed 100% that gtr injectors can be run with a r30 resistor pack - using stock ecu / power fc ...

also where is it exactly located in the r30 and what does it look like (exactly)

and what does an r30 look like hehe - what year?

thanks :(

-Matt

Edited by huddy

The R30 uses the usual automotive plug 8pin plug that is made by various manufactures such as navara etc. They can be picked up from the local auto store for around $3.95.

Have a look in the tutorials section for a guide + pics written by Roy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...