Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls,

Mate's car (coming ex-Japan) has an S-AFC installed. That's the version with the blue screen, six buttons.

The S-AFC II has the rotating knob instead of the buttons, and offers slightly more capability (more tuning points, knock reading, etc).

Without having a look-see at how it's wired up, is it possible to just unplug the S-AFC and replace it with a S-AFC II?? Or are the harnesses different in the newer one??

Thanks..

Ive never even looked at my knock sensor.

Here in SA the ecu add-ons are illegal, so mine are 'hidden' from view

"sorry occifer, I dont have a glovebox key, have no idea a SAFC2 & SITC are in there - wow sir dont those screens look p'rrity sir?"

maybe I can just shout out "I NEVER BROKE THE LAW - - - - I AM THE LAW"

and then crush his Trachea with my mind, Darth Vader style.

LOL

Edited by Tangles

Tell you mate to just stick with the SAFC, does the same job really. If the ecu is picking up knock it will retard timing. The knock sensor does give you something to look at when your sitting at the lights, watching it slowly creep, nowhere near dangerous however... but thats about all it does for me.

That is ofcourse if the warfies and sneaky boat people dont steal the safc outa the car on its way over from japan...

What I want to know is how accurate the SAFC knock reading actually is... I find that mine fluctuates with the weather (air temp)

Lowest I've seen after hour long drive = 0 ~ 15

Highest I've seen after hour long drive = 50 ~ 60

Obviously the air temps are very different on these two occasions.

From memory the plugs on the loom fopr the safc are physically different (the SAFC2 is wider) so if upgrading you will need to install it properly.

The SAFC2 only uses 1 wire for knock, the ECU's on RB's use 2 knock sensors hence 2 wires.

IMO it's already got an safc1 no point wasting the money an an safc 2 unless you REALLY want to see the knock reading (like me :))

as for accuracy, it varies from car to car because the baseline reading that you set in it (when you first calibrate them) would be different depending on the health of the engine.

All very good points.

In my opinion, I SERIOUSLY suggest do NOT buy a SAFCII, but do in fact BUY a Apexi Super Ignition Timing Computer (SITC).

Search ebay and pick one up, to compliment the tuning of the original SAFC. Worth every penny....

>_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...