Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

Sydneykid

By Sydneykid,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

NP mate. it does not require welding but it will require your machineist to machine down the crank and fit it correctly. its not a easy job and you have to have the crank out of the engine to do the task.

what was the other question? did you read through this thread ? it has everything you need.

  • Replies 1.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

iruvyouskyrine
iruvyouskyrine

Whoops, yes i did mean catch can, corrected it now. Yes i understand that now. The two goals are to reduce the amount of oil entering the head, and equalize crankcase pressure. The oiling issue is s

fatz
fatz

less thinking more doing shit that works in the getto Dash ten on pasengers side Two dash 12 on the drivers side, angles and spaced so as not to hit shit and be able to tighten the f**ker up note

SimonR32
SimonR32

I ran my set up right up to 8800rpm at 2 bar (740rwhp) around the track with sticky R-comps the other night and not a drop out of the catch can. This is with no oil restrictors to the head and a stoc

Posted Images

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

always balance everything that goes up and down and round and round. Might as clean up the crank too while there, any dags and casting marks clean it up and get it slippery smooth.

SATO GTS Community Regular

SATO GTS

Posted
Posted

In regards to the RB25 , why is the front feed blocked off and the rear feed restricted but with the other engines its the rear feed that gets blocked off and the front feed get's the restrictor as per sydneykids table ??

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

we dont know where sydney kid comes up with his ideas but they have been proven to work time after time after time so its a good idea not to ask questions how he comes up with it...

I think it may be because the rb25 has hydro lifters and its required to have it setup that way to run them properly where the gtr has solids which does not need the same kind of oil configuration.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

Mine is done as per Sydney kids instructions and its been running for 2 years and 363rwkw.

There are many others whos are running well too. I dont know why people have to question it all the time.

well i certainly do not know thats why i am asking these question's b4 i put the motor together .. i want to be 100% sure all is correct ..
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
in saying that guilt-toy if you install the non vct 25 head you block of the rear and feed the front but with the 25 vct head its opposite and both have hydraulic lifters..

thats is correct??

I run the non-vct RB25 head.

I blocked off the rear restrictor as the Rb26's are and run a 1.5mm restrictor up font.

Works fine no ticks, pops etc. Went from shit loads of oil everywhere over 5500rpm+ to a bone dry catch can. Still plenty of oil floating around in the cam covers. Prior on idle oil was puddled up to the base of the cam so you couldn't see the lifter. Now u can.

As a few have experienced; if you experience hydraulic lifter tick once the motor is warm its a tell tale sign the motors on its last legs. Recently happened to a mate of mine running an rb30det.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

what went on your mates engine when it went ? i get lifter tick for about 5 seconds when i start the engine on cold startup only...

just wondering what went on your mates engine

I run the non-vct RB25 head.

I blocked off the rear restrictor as the Rb26's are and run a 1.5mm restrictor up font.

Works fine no ticks, pops etc. Went from shit loads of oil everywhere over 5500rpm+ to a bone dry catch can. Still plenty of oil floating around in the cam covers. Prior on idle oil was puddled up to the base of the cam so you couldn't see the lifter. Now u can.

As a few have experienced; if you experience hydraulic lifter tick once the motor is warm its a tell tale sign the motors on its last legs. Recently happened to a mate of mine running an rb30det.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
what went on your mates engine when it went ? i get lifter tick for about 5 seconds when i start the engine on cold startup only...

just wondering what went on your mates engine

Lifter tick when the oil was warm and poor oil pressure no bottom end knocks or noises. The lifters were silent when cold.

Mine is fairly decent on cold start up, I only get an occasional tick. I can't remember the last time it ticked but I haven't been driving the car during the week for a while.

The RB20 was the same. Occasional tick.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

Yeah well i checked my oil change sticker and it has been 6000km's since a oil change!! so thats why they would be ticking.. oil is getting a little old but its 300v chrono which is known to last longer then normal fully synthetic oil.

will change it in the next week or 2 :) ooooopppss

Lifter tick when the oil was warm and poor oil pressure no bottom end knocks or noises. The lifters were silent when cold.

Mine is fairly decent on cold start up, I only get an occasional tick. I can't remember the last time it ticked but I haven't been driving the car during the week for a while.

The RB20 was the same. Occasional tick.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

thats a pretty over the top solution Beyond Horizon, you will never fit the standard piping back on if you go a fitting like that. A simple 90o angle with 1/2 hose barbs on one side and 3/8 BSP thread on the other can be tapped into the head just to the right of the fitting in that pic - much easier, smaller and about $3 for the fitting

Chris Wilson Proficient

Chris Wilson

Posted
Posted
thats a pretty over the top solution Beyond Horizon, you will never fit the standard piping back on if you go a fitting like that. A simple 90o angle with 1/2 hose barbs on one side and 3/8 BSP thread on the other can be tapped into the head just to the right of the fitting in that pic - much easier, smaller and about $3 for the fitting

But will it flow as well, bearing in mind we are talking gravity feed here?

Behind Horizon Collaborator

Behind Horizon

Posted
Posted
thats a pretty over the top solution Beyond Horizon, you will never fit the standard piping back on if you go a fitting like that. A simple 90o angle with 1/2 hose barbs on one side and 3/8 BSP thread on the other can be tapped into the head just to the right of the fitting in that pic - much easier, smaller and about $3 for the fitting

Do you know where i can find some pictures of this modification you're talking about or do you have some ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      RB25DET Series 1 & Series 2 Gearbox Identification

      By MBS206 · Posted

      He should do an LS7 too...
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • sunsetR33
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB25DET Series 1 & Series 2 Gearbox Identification

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.
×
×
  • Create New...