Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

Sydneykid

By Sydneykid,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 1.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

iruvyouskyrine
iruvyouskyrine

Whoops, yes i did mean catch can, corrected it now. Yes i understand that now. The two goals are to reduce the amount of oil entering the head, and equalize crankcase pressure. The oiling issue is s

fatz
fatz

less thinking more doing shit that works in the getto Dash ten on pasengers side Two dash 12 on the drivers side, angles and spaced so as not to hit shit and be able to tighten the f**ker up note

SimonR32
SimonR32

I ran my set up right up to 8800rpm at 2 bar (740rwhp) around the track with sticky R-comps the other night and not a drop out of the catch can. This is with no oil restrictors to the head and a stoc

Posted Images

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

It would be good to get some hard evidence about the rear "drain". Some say, and I tend to agree, that it really functions as a sump breather in which case it might as well go to the catch can as to the back of the head. Someone talked about putting a plastic hose on the head drain and sticking a video camera in there but there is a much simpler way.

What is needed is someone who has overcome the problem of filling the cam covers with oil on the track (not someone still experiencing this problem because if the cam covers really are filling up with oil - as happens - then some of that oil is bound to go down a rear head drain pipe) to take the end that goes to the sump and stick it (securely) in a container and run a breather to atmosphere or a catch can from the fitting on the sump it came off. Then give it some stick for a few laps and see how much, if any, oil is in the container. It wold take a selfless searcher for truth to do this because this person would have already solved their problems and for them it would only be of academic interest but for the rest of the RB world it would be valuable information!!

BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

Posted
Posted

I couldn't do 2 laps without filling my catch can. I had a reinmax pump and revving to 9200rpm on a 3ltr. Changed the restrictor to 1.1mm from 1.5 and installed a head drain. I then had not a single drop of oil out the catch can after 20 laps. Cams had plenty of lubrication. The rear head drain hose burnt closed and made no difference to how much oil was in the head. It just comes down to matching your oil pump flow to your restrictor size.

I also had mines triple flow baffles and a 1.1 litre increased baffled sump.

Matt

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Thanks for that. So you're saying the rear drain doesn't drain. Was the head an RB26 or 25, solid or hydraulic lifters? Just one oil feed no vct? And the mines triple flow baffles are they in the cam covers (as opposed to sump baffles)?

Thanks

Bob

  • 2 weeks later...
JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted

I bought 2 x Tomei 1.5mm oil restrictors for my RB25DET Neo build. Yes I know best practice is to block 1 completely and run the restrictor in the other. Anyway I just went to put them in and realised the standard Nissan restrictors are already 1.5mm each.

My understanding was that the standard restrictors are 2mm. Maybe they are 1.5mm on the Neo as they come standard with an N1 oil pump?

Anyway I think I will get 2 x 1.2mm restrictors and run with those.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

rb30 are 2mm. all rb25s are 3 x 1.5mm factory, with the front being solely for vct

Interesting. I'm about to pull the head off of my NEO engine. Jonno, What would you suggest to do with the restrictors if i'm retaining the factory N1 oil pump the NEO comes with.

I tried to follow sydney kids table as best as i could and also worked out the cross sectional area of different size restrictors. But still pulling my hair out as to which one to choose.

Now going by Simon-S14's NEO which is a full on drift car which sits on the limiter like no tomorrow, he says he has no issue with oil pumping into the head. However he is at high revs for shorter periods of time than a circuit car.

I was thinking of blocking the centre oil feed as per SK's table and maybe going down to a 1 - 1.3mm oil restrictor in the rear.

Any thoughts?

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I just pulled my engine out as it was filling the can covers with oil and putting out great clouds of smoke on the track and oiling up the whole engine bay. The block was bought already prepared so I was suprised to find it already had 2 x 1.2mm restrictors. We are fitting 2 x 1.0mm restrictors and two 20mm breathers to the sump. Will let you know how it pans out.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

I just pulled my engine out as it was filling the can covers with oil and putting out great clouds of smoke on the track and oiling up the whole engine bay. The block was bought already prepared so I was suprised to find it already had 2 x 1.2mm restrictors. We are fitting 2 x 1.0mm restrictors and two 20mm breathers to the sump. Will let you know how it pans out.

What engine and oil pump do you have?

TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

I bought 2 x Tomei 1.5mm oil restrictors for my RB25DET Neo build. Yes I know best practice is to block 1 completely and run the restrictor in the other. Anyway I just went to put them in and realised the standard Nissan restrictors are already 1.5mm each.

My understanding was that the standard restrictors are 2mm. Maybe they are 1.5mm on the Neo as they come standard with an N1 oil pump?

Anyway I think I will get 2 x 1.2mm restrictors and run with those.

the tomeis squash down to around 1.2-1.3mm once installed.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

What engine and oil pump do you have?

RB30/25 N1 pump. I know SK's chart says to completely block one feed but my mechanic thinks that's not safe. Engine is back in and should be running tomorrow. He has also had good results with putting RB26 cam covers with Mines baffles but there is no room on my engine because of the position of the w/g on my custom made manifold.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

RB30/25 N1 pump. I know SK's chart says to completely block one feed but my mechanic thinks that's not safe. Engine is back in and should be running tomorrow. He has also had good results with putting RB26 cam covers with Mines baffles but there is no room on my engine because of the position of the w/g on my custom made manifold.

Yeah id like to put RB26 covers on mine with the baffle plates but factory plenum doesnt allow to.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Hydraulic lifters and VCT enabled

Ok then, well i have a NEO with factory N1 oil pump. If you were pumping too much oil into your head with 1.2mm restrictors then i'll probably block one feed and run something like a 1.3mm in the other.

I have solid lifters so i can block one completely, probably not the best to do it with yours as you still have hyd buckets.

When will it be on the track again so you can compare results by going with 1.0mm restrictors?

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Ok then, well i have a NEO with factory N1 oil pump. If you were pumping too much oil into your head with 1.2mm restrictors then i'll probably block one feed and run something like a 1.3mm in the other.

I have solid lifters so i can block one completely, probably not the best to do it with yours as you still have hyd buckets.

When will it be on the track again so you can compare results by going with 1.0mm restrictors?

As well as the restrictors I am hoping that the two 20mm breathers in the sump will help with oil return from the head.

Also have Tomei baffle kit in the (awd) sump.

Hampton Downs 25 March but I should get some indications on the dyno as I am upping the boost from the initial 10psi to 18 - 21. When it is tuned I may be able to fit in a test day at Pukekohe late in Feb. Will keep you posted with any results.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

As well as the restrictors I am hoping that the two 20mm breathers in the sump will help with oil return from the head.

Does this mean your running 2x 20mm breathers from the top of the intake side of the sump to the top of the catch can?

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted

I am going to drill out the 5 x oil return galleries in the block (9.5mm) and will clean up the 2 larger oil returns at the back of the block (RB25DET Neo).

I don't currently have the head with me as it is currently being checked and machined etc, but I assume I am correct in thinking that the galleries in the head will need to drilled out to match.

As I don't have it with me so I cant quite remember where those galleries end up in the head, but I assume you need to drill them out with the cams not installed?

Trouble is it will comeback all clean and assembled, I would rather not go drilling into it >_<

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

I am going to drill out the 5 x oil return galleries in the block (9.5mm) and will clean up the 2 larger oil returns at the back of the block (RB25DET Neo).

I don't currently have the head with me as it is currently being checked and machined etc, but I assume I am correct in thinking that the galleries in the head will need to drilled out to match.

As I don't have it with me so I cant quite remember where those galleries end up in the head, but I assume you need to drill them out with the cams not installed?

Trouble is it will comeback all clean and assembled, I would rather not go drilling into it >_<

Get your machinist to do the drilling for you.

But yes i'm doing the same. But i'll probably strip the head myself, do the drains, then get my machinist to just face the head for a new head gasket. Done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...