Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently ive got a 25/30 that enjoys running with plenty of oil in the head and not enough in the sump causing surge issues under heavy braking when doing dragging and track.

currently running stock pump and 1.5mm restrictors.with no oil drain from catch can to STOCK sump

Moving to n1 pump, 1.5mm restrictors and oil drain from catch can to ASR sump

Ive attached a diagram of my catch can setup. That is exactly how it is except I do not have a drain back to sump currently.

I am going to ventilate the sump better by running a 17mm id hose from catch can to sump for oil return.

Ive had a good read through this thread, and wonder if an additional oil drain from cylinder head is required, Or just ventilate the sump a bit better will do the trick.

Ive attached a pic from a bung in the cylinder head that seems to be at the bottom of the cylinder head,passenger side, where oil sits. Potential oil drain? or not required.

Going off the chart at the start shouldn't you only have the rear feed 1.5 or smaller and other 2 in the block blocked? Maybe just a blank in the middle feed will stop some of the issue

Going off the chart at the start shouldn't you only have the rear feed 1.5 or smaller and other 2 in the block blocked? Maybe just a blank in the middle feed will stop some of the issue

a better option? that will definitely help with keeping the oil in the sump.

If its got VCT it needs one for that, but for the two in the block block the center one and try a 1.5mm at the rear.

vct feed via tap and drill on the side of the rb25 head.

plenty of other cars working with only 1 1.5mm head feed from rear?

I have 2 x 1mm restrictors and two 1/2 in breathers from sump to catch can (one acts as a return) no "drain" from head. Completed a full track day for the first time with this set up and pretty much nothing coming out of the cam cover breathers now!

So you have one breather from the inlet side of the sump and one from the exhaust?

No - I just have two side by side on the inlet side - one goes to the top of the catch can one to the bottom - I suppose if you had the catch can somewhere in the middle you could run the drain to the exhaust side.

Ive attached a pic from a bung in the cylinder head that seems to be at the bottom of the cylinder head,passenger side, where oil sits. Potential oil drain? or not required.

r33 racer has previously posted the thread and fitting required to put a line/hose from there.

i have one fitted to my engine, due to its location you may need to grind the manifold plate for clearance and i would suggest running a solid metal tube for reliability

r33 racer has previously posted the thread and fitting required to put a line/hose from there.

i have one fitted to my engine, due to its location you may need to grind the manifold plate for clearance and i would suggest running a solid metal tube for reliability

I'm doing this exactly. Finding an off the shelf metal AN pipe is the hard part though.

I'm also running a drain (vent) from the rear of the head to the driver side of the sump, i've drilled out all the drains in the head and block to 9.5mm, die ground out the rear block and head drains. I'm also venting the driver side of the sump to the top of the catch can with a -12 fitting. I dont plan on draining the catch can back into the sump.

Is anyone able to tell me exactly how using two separate catch cans in series works and its advantage.

Cheers.

I'm doing this exactly. Finding an off the shelf metal AN pipe is the hard part though.

I'm also running a drain (vent) from the rear of the head to the driver side of the sump, i've drilled out all the drains in the head and block to 9.5mm, die ground out the rear block and head drains. I'm also venting the driver side of the sump to the top of the catch can with a -12 fitting. I dont plan on draining the catch can back into the sump.

Is anyone able to tell me exactly how using two separate catch cans in series works and its advantage.

Cheers.

i didnt notice that post until I had a look back a couple of pages.

I am about to invest in an asr sump so I might be able to get a couple of bungs welded to the side for oil drains from catch can + cylinder head,

i didnt notice that post until I had a look back a couple of pages.

I am about to invest in an asr sump so I might be able to get a couple of bungs welded to the side for oil drains from catch can + cylinder head,

I bought a custom ASR sump. The top of the range one, heaps of bungs on it. Built to my specs. $1200 or so later :S

no good?

No its good, they are good. The sump unfortunately didn't fit when i received it. It ended up being they didn't follow my specs to the dot and the sump ended up fouling.. However i explained the issue and John happily said send them back with the issue marked on the pan and we'll fix it. He even paid for the postage from me to them. Which i was impressed with.

I was quite happy with the service. Definitely a work of art thats for sure! They are flat out and John takes a little bit of time to respond to emails.

I got the club circuit pan built to my specs to fit into an R31 engine bay with about 6 fittings on it.

Try Lewis Engines for an extended, winged, baffled sump. And he'll weld however many more fittings you want onto the sump. Only cost $420 plus extra for each fitting you got welded to the sump.

Edited by tiels32

I am coming to the conclusion that the "drain" from the back of the cylinder head is not just unnecessary but actually undesirable. It is doubtful that it drains any oil back to the sump and so some people think it acts as a breather for the sump. Judging by the airflow that comes out of my breathers (and I have had a leak down test which discloses no excessive blow by)I would say that it probably has the effect of blowing oil in the cam covers out through the cam cover breathers and it is better for the sump breathers to go into a catch can.

Is anyone able to tell me exactly how using two separate catch cans in series works and its advantage.

Cheers.

I am currently using two completetly separate catch cans but plan to use two in series.

Right now I have one 2L catch can with two 1/2in breathers coming from the sump - one to the top and one to the bottom of the catch can. At extended periods of WOT some oil gets pushed up these breathers and I suspect, but don't know for sure, that it will be worse when powering through a left hand corner. I have a Tomei sump baffle kit but not an extended sump (which is a very desirable feature in a track car) so I don't want to lose too much oil ...and so I let it run back via the lower breather when the pressure is off.

I have another catch can which takes the two hoses from the cam cover breathers. There used to be a lot of oil coming out of the cam cover breathers but with the changes I have made (1mm restrictors and sump breathers) that is now minimal (insignificant).

Each catch can is vented to atmosphere through a Moroso breather cap. This arrangement is illegal in NZ unless you have a cert and are a member of a car club and have a competion licence and a log book. I can comply with these conditions but would like them not to be vented to atmosphere so I will run the cam cover hoses to the same 2L catch can as the sump breathers and then run a hose from the very top of the catch can (where the vent is currently) to another catch can which is definitely an oil/air seperator. That I plan to vent to the intake. I do not expect significant oil vapours etc to be in this after going though two catch cans and so it will not be a negative factor in the tune. If I am wrong I will revert to venting to atmosphere ...although I note some of the Japanese competition cars seem to do this ok (run 2 catch cans in series and vent to the intake).

The advantage? Well I could say I am saving the planet but in reality I am more concerned about the smells that waft in through my aircond as this is my daily as well as my race car!

KiwiRS4T - Is there any baffling or gauze inside your catch can with the crank case breathers plumbed into it? Or does the venting blow by pressure have clear access straight to the moroso breather cap?

KiwiRS4T - Is there any baffling or gauze inside your catch can with the crank case breathers plumbed into it? Or does the venting blow by pressure have clear access straight to the moroso breather cap?

There is no baffling at present as I have been experimenting to see what works. Mind you I don't believe there is too much to baffle as the pressure coming out of the sump is not so much blow-by (my leakdown tests confirm this) but I think it is the action of the crank that stirs up a storm!

I will have some metal internal baffling on my permanent set up and definitely the second catch can will be properly baffled.

This is what we did to stop and oil splattering around and coming out the vents, a perferated baffle plate was installed and pipe was put in to stop the oil having easy access when the oil pushes to the side under high cornering load, stainless wool was placed at the lower section to stop the oil having a easy path.

It seemed the only track that made it spit oil was Wakefield, being a left handed track the oil in the can on hard right hand corners would slosh to the side ond spit out.

Ive also installed RB26 covers with the Mines baffles.

10/40 oil ATM

Im going there tommorrow, lets hope it fixes the problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...