Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mate recently had his R33 GTST put on the dyno. Ran up 319RWHP..only engine mods are air filter, 3"exhaust from the cat back, front mount and running 1Bar boost. Guys at the workshop say it should be only pushing out around the 260RWHP mark which sounds about right.

I always thought something was weird about his car as my R33 had the same mods plus some extra and still struggled to keep up...

We thought it was a standard turbo and it looks as though it has never been replaced or the heat shielding removed.... any thoughts???? is there an easy way to check what turbo without pulling to much apart??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110878-319rwhp-standard-turbo-maybe/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 164
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

oh oh Steve remember MrGTST (Bretts) r33..he has a stock turbo and pulls 302rwhp...had you boys wondering if there was any other work done to it!! It was a freak of a car...makes power for no reason!!

Yes Phil but these cars had no sign of anything touched but there has to be something uprated but theres always signs of nuts and bolts with spanner marks and sealers etc and often other upgrades like airpods dumps etc not just a turbo upgrade.Spose the only way we will ever know is when the cars need their Turbos removed or modded..

high power is one thing, safety is another.

any workshop can lean out a car, put timing into it, to get it to make power, but at the end of the day it will be a time bomb.

i personally would sacrific abit of power to have a safety margin with the motor.

just be careful what goes on, i would like to think u would be very upset it your destroy a motor just for some extra power.

also the dyno run could be dodgy, who knows what the inlet temps where.

Its not lean or advanced it made almost the same power as it sat and its on an 06 accredited dyno.Top racing is a currant shootout shop.

The car Wildcat talks of did its power on another Dyno also.

WE may not be even talking the same car ar HIPSI has not said yet.

I dont think the car is stock as i said before but it shows no signs of any work having been done.

As said before time will tell whats in them.

Topracing claim no credit for this car as it already had the power.

I just looked at the file Made 313 and we turned it back to 299 because the Datascan showed 24deg timing at 6500 to 7000rpm and theres a power dip at 6000 and the scan showed only 10deg timing at that point so it really needs an ECU swap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...