Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GDay,

Just thought i'd post up some updated photos of my car, as some people were interested last time. For those who dont know, its a 1997 RB26 with forged pistons, prepped rods, ARP fasteners throughout, all the usual oil control mods (sump baffles, N1 pump, restrictors), GT35 Turbo, Autronic SM4, Trust 4inch exhaust, 100mm intercooler etc. I also spent heaps of time making stainless heat shields to help reduce under bonnet temps. All the hot bits are also ceramic coated or wrapped (or both!).

I started it for the first time in about 2 years last week and all went really well. Although its untuned, it still starts off the key with no probs; the Autronic is well worth the money in my opinion.

Ive just got to clean up the Autronic wiring and wire in the Autronic boost controller. Im using a seperate solenoid and switches in the cabin so that i can select between 3 boost settings ranging from about 7psi to maybe 25psi. Then ill tow it to Silverwater Automotive where Dave will tune it for me.

Im hoping for about 330 to 350rwkw, but as long as its responsive i dont really care. I went for the 0.82 turbine housing, so it should be good on the street.

Im hearing a bit of reversion when revving, so i hope the housing isnt too small. i think the BOV (Tial) is a bit stiff due to no use for 2 years, so that should explain that. Does anyone have any experience with these turbos on my engine. Will it be too small??

Anyway, here's some photos.

post-11456-1143270501.jpg

post-11456-1143270577.jpg

post-11456-1143270646.jpg

post-11456-1143270704.jpg

post-11456-1143270739.jpg

post-11456-1143270793.jpg

post-11456-1143270844.jpg

post-11456-1143270886.jpg

post-11456-1143270918.jpg

post-11456-1143271382.jpg

post-11456-1143419047.jpg

post-11456-1143419174.jpg

Edited by Shaun

Yeah, wheel spin will be a problem. Oh well.

Im using a standard radiator with EF Falcon thermo fans that are mounted in front of the radiator, and i reversed the direction of rotation so that they push air thru the radiator. Theyre awesome. They push sooo much air. I spent heaps of time modifying the Falcon shroud and sealing the system though.

Mounting the engine is easy as. Youve just gotta use the RB20 engine mounts instead of the RB26 mounts. If using standard turbos, the oil return line fouls on the passenger side mount though.

Shaun.

What did you do about the front diff/sump etc?

The front diff was cut off and the front drive shaft holes were welded up. Tomie sump baffles are also used. Then i used an RB25 gearbox with modified gearbox mount (the holes dont line up) and custom tail shaft. The shaft is custom because the RB25 yoke is bigger and the total length of the GB is also longer than the RB20 item.

how did you wire the thermos if you don't mind me asking? :D and what shroud did you use?

The Autronic has an output for thermos, so my friend who is an Autronic wiz wired them in for me. Electronics is the only area where im a dumb arse, so i let him do it for me. You can even stagger the fans so that one comes on at one temperature and the other comes on at another. Anyway, he said its a simple job if you know what youre doing. Sorry i dont have specifics.

I just bought some Falcon (EF?) thermos from a wreckers and extensively modified the falcon shroud to fit in front of the radiator with the A/C removed. Youve really got to make sure the whole system is sealed so that no air can get around the radiator. They work great.

I'm currently running a single EF thermo with a big radiator and it goes fine :thumbsup:. Was more interested in the specifics which you answered :). I wonder does a powerfc have similar thermofan controls?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...