Jump to content
SAU Community

rb30dett or rb26dett  

48 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

hi,

i started getting bits together to build an RB30dett with a gtr head and turbos and can still do so. but i can now get hold of the rest of the gtr engine so im not sure as to what one i should build. its to go into an R32 fourdoor.

If i build the RB30 i have to ceramic coat pistons, drill out head bolt threads, modify cam belt bits, change oil pump etc.

If i build the RB26 i have to work out how to move the oil pickup and use another sump due to the 4wd sump (i have the rb30 sump and ill have my rb20 one but i dont know whats involved in moving the pickup??)

comments please

cheers

daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111207-rb26dett-or-rb30dett26head/
Share on other sites

rb30/26 for sure, its worth the small hassle. My rb30/25 only has 166rwkw's but compared to my old rb20 which had 159rwkw's it leaves it for dead! The 26 head will be even better! i probably wouldn't waste your time ceramic coating the pistons and save that money for something else!

If i build the RB26 i have to work out how to move the oil pickup and use another sump due to the 4wd sump

You just remove the diff and weld the 26 sump up.

no great drama if the welder knows what they are doing

id do it all myself, but will the R32 gtr sump fit into the R32 gtst body? i thought the steering setup was different?

Mr RB are you running everything stock or what mods do u have on the RB30/25? as to the ceramic coating, i wont be running oil squirters so for future modding im fair sure ill need it.

any other comments on power/torque.

its a hard driven street car thats on the track for drift/motorkana/sprints about once a fourtnite

cheers

Edited by =premo=

Thats probably not the best example to use as far as power figures go, 100 or so kw missing.

rb30/26 for sure, its worth the small hassle. My rb30/25 only has 166rwkw's but compared to my old rb20 which had 159rwkw's it leaves it for dead! The 26 head will be even better! i probably wouldn't waste your time ceramic coating the pistons and save that money for something else!

Dont suggest you destroy sump/diff in which you can get good money for, can buy aftermarket sump/pickup from High Energy. Probably wont cost you much buy the time you sell yours.

You just remove the diff and weld the 26 sump up.

no great drama if the welder knows what they are doing

Get in contact with BU5TER, he would be the man to talk to as he has done it, he just doesnt dream about it and then throw his 20 cents in. He will be able to advise you about everything.

hi,

i started getting bits together to build an RB30dett with a gtr head and turbos and can still do so. but i can now get hold of the rest of the gtr engine so im not sure as to what one i should build. its to go into an R32 fourdoor.

If i build the RB30 i have to ceramic coat pistons, drill out head bolt threads, modify cam belt bits, change oil pump etc.

If i build the RB26 i have to work out how to move the oil pickup and use another sump due to the 4wd sump (i have the rb30 sump and ill have my rb20 one but i dont know whats involved in moving the pickup??)

comments please

cheers

daniel

hmm, to add to the confusion, building the full RB26dett would cost me less than building the RB30/26. a good friend has the bottem end, i already have everything else ( except forged pistons and gaskets ), i already have the RB30 but still need oil pump, water pump, pistons, gaskets. the 30 will cost more due to ceramic coating, cam belt setup, tuning and other eletrical bits. the RB26 will need a few bits replaced but will be like a simple rebuild, not much tuning needed. either way ill be putting it together with darren from lewis engines so porting, preping rods crank, shot pinging, boaring, honing etc will only take up our time not money.

premo, there's no need to ceramic coat unless you wish to race (track) it, only then would I consider.

The cost of it all will be pretty much the same as you use the same water/oil pump as you would on the 26.

Depending on your use... make your decision. If its motorkhana rb30 all the way, if its purely track work.. well I'd have to say I would go the rb26.

If I were to spend 900 on a nice ATI balancer only then would I go the rb30 for track work. :D

i havnt done many track days but i am drifting more and more, well every chance i get now that i have a lil bit of a tyre sponsor.

how hard does the stock RB26 rev (where does the power level off)?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...