Jump to content
SAU Community

rb30dett or rb26dett  

48 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

hi,

i started getting bits together to build an RB30dett with a gtr head and turbos and can still do so. but i can now get hold of the rest of the gtr engine so im not sure as to what one i should build. its to go into an R32 fourdoor.

If i build the RB30 i have to ceramic coat pistons, drill out head bolt threads, modify cam belt bits, change oil pump etc.

If i build the RB26 i have to work out how to move the oil pickup and use another sump due to the 4wd sump (i have the rb30 sump and ill have my rb20 one but i dont know whats involved in moving the pickup??)

comments please

cheers

daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111207-rb26dett-or-rb30dett26head/
Share on other sites

rb30/26 for sure, its worth the small hassle. My rb30/25 only has 166rwkw's but compared to my old rb20 which had 159rwkw's it leaves it for dead! The 26 head will be even better! i probably wouldn't waste your time ceramic coating the pistons and save that money for something else!

If i build the RB26 i have to work out how to move the oil pickup and use another sump due to the 4wd sump

You just remove the diff and weld the 26 sump up.

no great drama if the welder knows what they are doing

id do it all myself, but will the R32 gtr sump fit into the R32 gtst body? i thought the steering setup was different?

Mr RB are you running everything stock or what mods do u have on the RB30/25? as to the ceramic coating, i wont be running oil squirters so for future modding im fair sure ill need it.

any other comments on power/torque.

its a hard driven street car thats on the track for drift/motorkana/sprints about once a fourtnite

cheers

Edited by =premo=

Thats probably not the best example to use as far as power figures go, 100 or so kw missing.

rb30/26 for sure, its worth the small hassle. My rb30/25 only has 166rwkw's but compared to my old rb20 which had 159rwkw's it leaves it for dead! The 26 head will be even better! i probably wouldn't waste your time ceramic coating the pistons and save that money for something else!

Dont suggest you destroy sump/diff in which you can get good money for, can buy aftermarket sump/pickup from High Energy. Probably wont cost you much buy the time you sell yours.

You just remove the diff and weld the 26 sump up.

no great drama if the welder knows what they are doing

Get in contact with BU5TER, he would be the man to talk to as he has done it, he just doesnt dream about it and then throw his 20 cents in. He will be able to advise you about everything.

hi,

i started getting bits together to build an RB30dett with a gtr head and turbos and can still do so. but i can now get hold of the rest of the gtr engine so im not sure as to what one i should build. its to go into an R32 fourdoor.

If i build the RB30 i have to ceramic coat pistons, drill out head bolt threads, modify cam belt bits, change oil pump etc.

If i build the RB26 i have to work out how to move the oil pickup and use another sump due to the 4wd sump (i have the rb30 sump and ill have my rb20 one but i dont know whats involved in moving the pickup??)

comments please

cheers

daniel

hmm, to add to the confusion, building the full RB26dett would cost me less than building the RB30/26. a good friend has the bottem end, i already have everything else ( except forged pistons and gaskets ), i already have the RB30 but still need oil pump, water pump, pistons, gaskets. the 30 will cost more due to ceramic coating, cam belt setup, tuning and other eletrical bits. the RB26 will need a few bits replaced but will be like a simple rebuild, not much tuning needed. either way ill be putting it together with darren from lewis engines so porting, preping rods crank, shot pinging, boaring, honing etc will only take up our time not money.

premo, there's no need to ceramic coat unless you wish to race (track) it, only then would I consider.

The cost of it all will be pretty much the same as you use the same water/oil pump as you would on the 26.

Depending on your use... make your decision. If its motorkhana rb30 all the way, if its purely track work.. well I'd have to say I would go the rb26.

If I were to spend 900 on a nice ATI balancer only then would I go the rb30 for track work. :D

i havnt done many track days but i am drifting more and more, well every chance i get now that i have a lil bit of a tyre sponsor.

how hard does the stock RB26 rev (where does the power level off)?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...