Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, I got this GTR 2 weeks ago and this is the first time i've had a camera so i took some photos. Don't mind the dust (GRRRR black cars)

R32GTR_side_03.JPG

R32GTR_back_01.JPG

R32GTR_front_02.JPG

R32GTR_front_04.JPG

R32GTR_front_01.JPG

R32GTR_side_02.JPG

Its a Vspec with Brembo brakes. Apart from that, everything is stock, even the exhaust! Got some 17" light weight enkei rims though.

What do you think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111320-my-new-gtr-with-lots-of-pics/
Share on other sites

wow .... nearly ran out to check if mine was still there until i saw the pee shooter exhaust :fakenopic:...... thats a good sign the small exhaust that the cars fairly fresh i think ........well done !

Welcome to the black gtr club :starwars:

Now buy a good shammy .....

wow .... nearly ran out to check if mine was still there until i saw the pee shooter exhaust :P...... thats a good sign the small exhaust that the cars fairly fresh i think ........well done !

Welcome to the black gtr club ;)

Now buy a good shammy .....

HAHA, does your car have the same wheels too?

Your right about the condition, stock cars are much fresher. Havn't had a compresion test yet but i don't think i need one, the engine feels strong and is very smooth. Engine bay looks very tidy, the interior is fairly nice for a 13 year old (the dash has a few bubles) and the body is excellent.

Toke it around yarra blv today. OMG, it just pulls & pulls and the car is just so solid on the bends.

The stock setup is pretty good, very communicative. Going into a corner with hard braking will push the tail out & go hard on the gas, little opposite lock and the 4WD just pulls the car straight.

I don't know why people complain about the 4wd lag, its very quick to respond. I was told that the Vspecs had the 33 computer in it so that might be the reason.

Can't wait to go for a cruise to the G.O.B :rofl:

MY GOD, BLACK R32GTR and its a V-SPEC as well???? I want I want. Nice and clean car there dude, i've got a black one as well.

We should organise a cruise with 32GTR's only, sound good?

HAHA only Black 32GTR Vspec Cruise, don't think there will be many around mate. Only joking

yeah, GTR cruise sounds awsome, love to take some shots of 10 or so clean 32 GTRs together!

Beautiful GTR – have always loved the black (& Bayside Blue) & know the problems with ‘clean’ black!! Speaking of which, what are recommendations for polish/cut/crème/wash, for being quick and easy, as much as I love touching my car, I don’t want to spend all weekend washing it!!

I’ve used some ‘Mothers’ stuff, but think that ‘McGuires’ is better& had some horror experiences with Turtle (your know their farked when there on their back!). What’s your experience?

Love black – hate the effort!

I compromised for metallic silver – not as sinister as black, not as angelic as white!

:rolleyes:

Beautiful GTR – have always loved the black (& Bayside Blue) & know the problems with ‘clean’ black!! Speaking of which, what are recommendations for polish/cut/crème/wash, for being quick and easy, as much as I love touching my car, I don’t want to spend all weekend washing it!!

I’ve used some ‘Mothers’ stuff, but think that ‘McGuires’ is better& had some horror experiences with Turtle (your know their farked when there on their back!). What’s your experience?

Love black – hate the effort!

I compromised for metallic silver – not as sinister as black, not as angelic as white!

:P

Hi mate,

McGuries is ok but i use AUTOGLYM. Just use McGuries wet look to wash the car, then use AUTOGLYM wax & polish. I find it gives a much better result. I wouldn't be using paint restore unless the paint looks a bit dull.

This GTR has a gold/bronze peral though it when it is in the sun light. Looks awsome.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...