Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 224
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey,

seeing as u are online.

could you please pm me a price for the front calipers, and the throttle cable.

that would be great.

i just got that walbro fuel pump in my hands, so might be able to work out some sort of trade.

as car is now being delayed for a couple of weeks, with the intercooler piping on mine being done, and all the engine mounts, and crap, then its still gotta get wired.

so more delays.

let me know.

i am free sat day.

and i know how u hate making prices up.

ZERO - I do have black petrol lid cover. PM me with details

Honey - PM sent

Nismoman18 - PM sent

v8 ute - I still have diff. It's just standard diff, i dont know the ratio

Parts just sold update: clutch, flywheel, set of 4 wheels, seatbelts, fuel pump.

keep up the good work. heaps of parts still left.

(prefer MELBOURNE)

jetgts,

Mate would it be possible to obtain any badges to replace the ones prized off mine (That is if any person who is buying the panel did not want the pannel complete, I can understand if they would).

Ie. Front S, Side GTs and the Boot badge that covers the barrel.

The other thing was that if the headlight covers were clear (as in not that opaque colour that has happened to mine) and could be taken off in one piece then I would be very interested.

Cheers mate!

-Alex

mrskyline777 - nope sorry

mrthorpedo - u have pm

zzsprade - side badges sold, have front and rear still.

the front ideally prefer to sell with the grill, and the rear, well, I dunno. depends on what u want to pay

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...