Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

i had a manufacturering defect in my front right drivers side rim 17" 235/45 and had to take it off so mostly un beknowns to me i stuck on the 'space saver' and done sum major damage up front AWD GTR style drive train.

i dont know wot the clunking noises are my mechanic @ 5:45 wanted to go home and said best case senario the axel has poped out of joint from the car being jacked up, but that being the case and u driving it uve prolly shredded the splines

has any1 come accross this b4 and how much are axels or other things upfront gunna cost me

i know this is very vauge but i will know more info tomorrow after he rings me

also i did take off the drive shaft that goes to the front and the AWD fuse from the boot but the clunking had allready started by then .. damage done :(:D

would possibly the boys from willal racing have old parts theve upgraded out of GTR's lieing arround

any1 got any ideas whereby i dont have to sell my first born :O

if any1 has any ideas they need to tell me whereby the forum is too slow u can contact me on 0421 931 750

BTW my mechanic's is Everlast Mufflers i trust Daryl Dowling, Justin Dowling, Jim Nalder

thx Steve

oh i was also thinking as a quick fix i can get them to take the front axels out and i can continue on driving ... any thoughts on this

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111484-help-attesa-drive-train/
Share on other sites

ok UPDATE

my mechanic has drained all the oil from the front diff and has found chunks of metal fileings and well not good is it

where not sure how much needs replacing

any1 here in the industry or knows where to get this sort of thing checked out...or had work done of this nature on there GTR front diff

my mechanic is gunna give pete a ring from willal industries for a loose quote

:P sigh

ah ok well thats 2k better than wot im thinking

but i cant change my thoughts im expecting to hear the 5k figure mentioned...

i will be ringing the bank tomorrow to find out wot my options are on refinacing and eagerly awaiting my mechanic to ring me back with good news from pete (willal industries)

Crud...sorry to hear that Madaz. From what i know obviously the space saver stuffed the ratio between the front tyres and the rears through the 4WD system, happens alot to people with 4WD's hence they usually 99% time have a spare that comes with them of the same size.

Hopefully its just the front, if its the transfer case and the rear then maybe..maybe it will cost abit. If its just the front then Tangles will be about right with 3K. Luck with it

When my ABS & 4WD went kaput on my Stagea, I refused to drive it (did like 90km in the month)... I knew it was a 4k figure IF I drove and stuffed up the 4wd system.

Dills at *onkins drilled thru my wiring loom when installing a *tereo system. Finally, after much searching here on the threads etc etc, and much heartache, worked out the problem & it was fixed in a jiffy.

Now, reading your thread here Steve, Im so glad I didnt continue to drive it! And now I know if a spacesaver goes on, then its on for no more than a few kms............

Bad luck 2 you, hope its the best-case scenario mate.

Brendan

yeah thx

i highly suggest NOT using the space saver unless its has the same rolling diameter as ur rims uve got on there now 1" WILL make a difference and put u in the same boat im in now

if only i had of asked questions when i saw sum1 post u cant use a different rim on these cars

well u live and learn

dont u normally fit the space saver to the rear, and move the rear good one to the front on them AWD cars? Rather than running around with the space saver on the front...?

5k figure..:wtf: glad i stuck to rwd...

bad luck mate...

Edited by Bl4cK32
does any1 know Pete from willall racing .... im having the hardest time getting in contact with him and i fear i might have to go with other repair shop

madaz , you will have to go through someone like Steve from manta racing to get your car to peter. He isn't alowing people to deal with him dirrectly now{to busy}. I will pm you his number, he got my car down there in two days notice.

Good luck :rolleyes:

*** UPDATE ***

ty to all the well wishes]

i havnt yet got 2 quotes but the first 1 i got was from Japanese Auto Mart Cavan road

they quoted me

$1250 Gearbox and Diff (not the tranmission gearbox)

$450 Fitting

$50 oil

$200 each drive shaft

totaling

$2150

oh and a 3month 5000km warranty on all the work and i guess parts

does any 1 know on a job of this type replacing so much will that be fron CV's replaced or thats extra

http://www.hotline40.com.au/?id=dealerinfo&no=31

i dont know if any1 has any beware stories or i had sumthing done there and they do good work

i do remember going there when i had my R31 looking for rims but they couldnt help me :P (good thing anyways as i sold the car)

Edited by Madaz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...