Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am replaceing my standard rotors with slotted ones.

Have removed the calipers and pads but cannot remove rotors.

Am I forgetting something?

I used a bit of WD-40 to loosen them, thinking they are just stubborn. Am going to try again tonight but want to be sure I am not missing removing something. I even tried a bolt into the two holes to get it pull away from the hub but that didn't help didn't feel good got very tight but did not loosen rotor.

Advice needed...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111525-trouble-removing-rotors/
Share on other sites

I am replaceing my standard rotors with slotted ones.

Have removed the calipers and pads but cannot remove rotors.

Am I forgetting something?

I used a bit of WD-40 to loosen them, thinking they are just stubborn. Am going to try again tonight but want to be sure I am not missing removing something. I even tried a bolt into the two holes to get it pull away from the hub but that didn't help didn't feel good got very tight but did not loosen rotor.

Advice needed...

What car? R32? If so just use the threaded holes to slowly work the rotor off. Might help to tap the rotor (near stud holes) with a mallet to help work them off. Just do it slowly, and be patient. They will come eventually, norlmally have not been off for a long time.

What car? R32? If so just use the threaded holes to slowly work the rotor off. Might help to tap the rotor (near stud holes) with a mallet to help work them off. Just do it slowly, and be patient. They will come eventually, norlmally have not been off for a long time.

Its an R33 GTST S2, I have used holes to work bolts into they got very tight was waiting for thread to rip out, tried mallet and WD-40 still no joy....

Its an R33 GTST S2, I have used holes to work bolts into they got very tight was waiting for thread to rip out, tried mallet and WD-40 still no joy....

Mine were very tight too. just keep pressure on the bolts screwing the rotor out, tap away with the mallet. Pressure and shock impacts should get them off. Just dont be too savage. At the end of the day you said you were replacing them anyway.

i did this exact same thing 8 months ago on my r33 s2 gts-t.

Basically the easiest way i found after swearing for agood 2 hours why the basterds wouldnt come off was the following

Put the screws into the holes, instead of pulling like i did just keep screwing them in till they get really firm as they will act as leverage to push the rotor away from the back. Get a rubber mallet and give it a whack (not to hard obviously) working around the corners. It should pop off if it doesnt keep trying to turn the bolts as they are the key when they have managed to loosen the rotor off a little bit they will come off easy as :teehee:

Cheers Leigh

  • 7 months later...

hey ppls

im having the same issues with the rear discs.. the barstard wont come off..

ive taken the calipers off.. and besides that i havnt undone any other bolts if im supposed to ?? ive been hitting it / the 5 bolts for an hour.. nothing seems to be happening.. any good ideas :( ??

also theres 2 little holes on the discs.. theres like a metal screw thing inside them but u cant do anything to it.

???

hey ppls

im having the same issues with the rear discs.. the barstard wont come off..

ive taken the calipers off.. and besides that i havnt undone any other bolts if im supposed to ?? ive been hitting it / the 5 bolts for an hour.. nothing seems to be happening.. any good ideas :( ??

also theres 2 little holes on the discs.. theres like a metal screw thing inside them but u cant do anything to it.

???

Is the handbrake up or down? if its off just belt them inbetween the studs, they will loosen up, dont use a rubber hammer its a waste of time

do u get them out from behind or something ???

cause i cant see them sticking out or anything...

Some discs have screws some dont, if they have em they will sit flush with the rotor inbetween wheel studs, if they havent been off in a while you'll need a good hammer, WD40 will help too, and lets not forget perserverance! :(

are u talking about the 2 screws ive circled in my pic ??

how do i get them out.... ?? theres nothing to put the spanner on..... ??? or am i missing something :( ?

this hammer you speak of.. wat am i hitting specificaly.. i was hitting the rotor before, but that didnt do squat

thanks :ninja:

post-19018-1163238517.jpg

hey dude first off as it has been mentioned is you hand brake off? If its not then it will be near impossible to take the disc off.

Second there is no screws holding the discs on, the two holes u have circled are for YOU to thread 2 bolts into, do them up and the disc will pop off.

are u talking about the 2 screws ive circled in my pic ??

how do i get them out.... ?? theres nothing to put the spanner on..... ??? or am i missing something :( ?

this hammer you speak of.. wat am i hitting specificaly.. i was hitting the rotor before, but that didnt do squat

thanks :ninja:

ok plan B.

Those little holes you circled, they are there to remove the disc if its tough,

They will be a 10mm or 12 mm bolt,

the bolt will have to be fairly long, and you just screw em in and they will push the disc off for you :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
    • Motor and body mockup. Wheel fitment and ride height not set. Last pic shows front ride height after modifying the front uprights to make a 1.25" drop spindle.
×
×
  • Create New...