Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am replaceing my standard rotors with slotted ones.

Have removed the calipers and pads but cannot remove rotors.

Am I forgetting something?

I used a bit of WD-40 to loosen them, thinking they are just stubborn. Am going to try again tonight but want to be sure I am not missing removing something. I even tried a bolt into the two holes to get it pull away from the hub but that didn't help didn't feel good got very tight but did not loosen rotor.

Advice needed...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/111525-trouble-removing-rotors/
Share on other sites

I am replaceing my standard rotors with slotted ones.

Have removed the calipers and pads but cannot remove rotors.

Am I forgetting something?

I used a bit of WD-40 to loosen them, thinking they are just stubborn. Am going to try again tonight but want to be sure I am not missing removing something. I even tried a bolt into the two holes to get it pull away from the hub but that didn't help didn't feel good got very tight but did not loosen rotor.

Advice needed...

What car? R32? If so just use the threaded holes to slowly work the rotor off. Might help to tap the rotor (near stud holes) with a mallet to help work them off. Just do it slowly, and be patient. They will come eventually, norlmally have not been off for a long time.

What car? R32? If so just use the threaded holes to slowly work the rotor off. Might help to tap the rotor (near stud holes) with a mallet to help work them off. Just do it slowly, and be patient. They will come eventually, norlmally have not been off for a long time.

Its an R33 GTST S2, I have used holes to work bolts into they got very tight was waiting for thread to rip out, tried mallet and WD-40 still no joy....

Its an R33 GTST S2, I have used holes to work bolts into they got very tight was waiting for thread to rip out, tried mallet and WD-40 still no joy....

Mine were very tight too. just keep pressure on the bolts screwing the rotor out, tap away with the mallet. Pressure and shock impacts should get them off. Just dont be too savage. At the end of the day you said you were replacing them anyway.

i did this exact same thing 8 months ago on my r33 s2 gts-t.

Basically the easiest way i found after swearing for agood 2 hours why the basterds wouldnt come off was the following

Put the screws into the holes, instead of pulling like i did just keep screwing them in till they get really firm as they will act as leverage to push the rotor away from the back. Get a rubber mallet and give it a whack (not to hard obviously) working around the corners. It should pop off if it doesnt keep trying to turn the bolts as they are the key when they have managed to loosen the rotor off a little bit they will come off easy as :teehee:

Cheers Leigh

  • 7 months later...

hey ppls

im having the same issues with the rear discs.. the barstard wont come off..

ive taken the calipers off.. and besides that i havnt undone any other bolts if im supposed to ?? ive been hitting it / the 5 bolts for an hour.. nothing seems to be happening.. any good ideas :( ??

also theres 2 little holes on the discs.. theres like a metal screw thing inside them but u cant do anything to it.

???

hey ppls

im having the same issues with the rear discs.. the barstard wont come off..

ive taken the calipers off.. and besides that i havnt undone any other bolts if im supposed to ?? ive been hitting it / the 5 bolts for an hour.. nothing seems to be happening.. any good ideas :( ??

also theres 2 little holes on the discs.. theres like a metal screw thing inside them but u cant do anything to it.

???

Is the handbrake up or down? if its off just belt them inbetween the studs, they will loosen up, dont use a rubber hammer its a waste of time

do u get them out from behind or something ???

cause i cant see them sticking out or anything...

Some discs have screws some dont, if they have em they will sit flush with the rotor inbetween wheel studs, if they havent been off in a while you'll need a good hammer, WD40 will help too, and lets not forget perserverance! :(

are u talking about the 2 screws ive circled in my pic ??

how do i get them out.... ?? theres nothing to put the spanner on..... ??? or am i missing something :( ?

this hammer you speak of.. wat am i hitting specificaly.. i was hitting the rotor before, but that didnt do squat

thanks :ninja:

post-19018-1163238517.jpg

hey dude first off as it has been mentioned is you hand brake off? If its not then it will be near impossible to take the disc off.

Second there is no screws holding the discs on, the two holes u have circled are for YOU to thread 2 bolts into, do them up and the disc will pop off.

are u talking about the 2 screws ive circled in my pic ??

how do i get them out.... ?? theres nothing to put the spanner on..... ??? or am i missing something :( ?

this hammer you speak of.. wat am i hitting specificaly.. i was hitting the rotor before, but that didnt do squat

thanks :ninja:

ok plan B.

Those little holes you circled, they are there to remove the disc if its tough,

They will be a 10mm or 12 mm bolt,

the bolt will have to be fairly long, and you just screw em in and they will push the disc off for you :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dredgggggeeee time; I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system. I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune. now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune. still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads. all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi. the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above. car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far. IMG_4848.mov
    • I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 
    • Can a moderator please move this into the right category.. I've accidently put this into racing build thread 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Being a manual, we very quickly ordered new R34 gearbox (From Nissan) and remaining parts from Kudos motorsports. Would highly recommend the team there. Ultra helpful and quick to share advice and upgrades. We are in the middle of taking the Auto out (Genuine 94,000/kms) and putting the Manual in this weekend. Part 2 of the build will include likely a Plazaman Intercooler and Plenium, Hks Exhaust with Tomei Dump (ordered).
×
×
  • Create New...