Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a ticking noise coming from something in the engine bay.

sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the car towards the front of the engine.

its louder on start up but gets a bit softer after a 10 seconds of running but i can still hear it.

any idea's before i take it to someone to get looked at end up paying for things i dont need?

thanks

ash

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112010-i-have-a-ticking-noise-help-please/
Share on other sites

Cold or Warm starts?

Could be the lifters just getting their first sqiurt of oil for the day.

Alternativly, the stock injectors are pretty damn loud on RB's?

Could also even be the fan hitting against a pipe (in my case FMIC) or wire thats loose?

Has your timing belt been changed; or alternaviely how many (genuine) kms has the car done?

btw:- bring it out on the next sthn SA crusie!

Edited by Tangles

i had a similar noise with my series2 not long after a long trip recently so got the belts all done on the front including the timing belt just to be sure and noises all gone now, all the drive belts were cracked an mechanic said it sometimes happens cos of the chemicals they spray the cars with when they de-bug them for quarantine?.

must react with the rubber i spose.

timing belt was done very recently

its on both warm and cold starts

fan clears the cooler pipe... just :D

i took it to my local mechanic today and he thinks its the exhaust manifold gasket. sound right to you guys?

"Just"

Theres your issue

Paint some black paint on your pipe, then start it and see if it rubs any of the black paint off.

I know because my pipes are painted black and the paint gets taken off. Put some sandpaper there to wear it down.

no it isnt that.

it clears. that was the first thing i thought it was.

there is a 5 mm gap

ive grabbed the pipe and pulled it up away from the fan and its still there. ive also pushed the pipe down and it still doesnt quite touch the fan, its braced quite solid.

I'll be doing the same when i get my turbo high flowed, i had a nut missing off my exhaust manifold, Doesn't seem to be leaking but will pull it all off and replace the gasket just to be sure.

  • 3 weeks later...
I'll be doing the same when i get my turbo high flowed, i had a nut missing off my exhaust manifold, Doesn't seem to be leaking but will pull it all off and replace the gasket just to be sure.

I head a similiar noise that begun just after I had my cat off and on. I hunted it down to 3 nuts and studs missing from my exhaust manifold! I dunno where they went, car is an unmodified import. I guess the stress on manifold of me playing around with cat made it start to leak.

Why are other peoples exahust manifolds missing bolts too? Seems odd to me. Suppose I'll have to pull it to bits now!

what oxford1327 said interests me, ie the chemicals sprayed on to decontaminate the car. As mentioned in "electronic rust prevention" the undersides of my S1 ar veiled in a film of rust (corrosion). Especially the bits that were cad plated.Apart from having a flat battery yesterday this rust is the only thing that isses me off.

Its going to cost $640 at Endrust to get it fixed.

what oxford1327 said interests me, ie the chemicals sprayed on to decontaminate the car. As mentioned in "electronic rust prevention" the undersides of my S1 ar veiled in a film of rust (corrosion). Especially the bits that were cad plated.Apart from having a flat battery yesterday this rust is the only thing that isses me off.

Its going to cost $640 at Endrust to get it fixed.

Odd - mine is completely rust free underneath - pefect! Nor have I found any ceramic bits as yet... as yet!

I've got the same noise in my series 1. Stock injectors are noisey. Seems to be a nissan thing, the ones in my sr20 wern't much quieter. But i have also noticed that the boost control solernoid is also a bit noisey.

There are pollution control solenoids which ticker away - best solution is to rubber mount them. However these are at the back of the motor and not the front, so I could be sending you on a rabbit hunt.

  • 1 month later...

Though not a Stagea Tick, but still Nissan.

Gave the S13 an oil change and this time changed the filter and changed the plugs. Put in the required amount

of oiland on start up a diabolical tick. More like an elf with a sledge hammer. The boys thought some foreign body got in thru a plug hhole, etc etc etc. Every time it started, tick,tick wtf.

The oil light didn't come on an the ECU was checked. Nope.

In desperation I put a bottle of Nulon in. The effin tick Stopped. Why.

My thought is that somehow the oil pump got an air lock and maybe the extra bit of lubricant helped it pick up properly. I have never experianced any5thing like this in 50yrs of oil changing, and we have changed the S13 and 180sx drifters many times before with no probs.

After the noise went away, the car was taken for a thrash up toBrissie and the next day was flogged a bit at

Queensland Raceway.Runs sweet as a nut.

Has anybody experienced this type of problem? The guys on Sil had no ideas.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...