Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MY 1JZGTE has done 184000k's on a factory internals, factory cams, factory intake manifold, with just big turbo injectors and ecu i am making 500rwhp through and auto and have done for 2 years, it doesnt blow smoke the catch can has never had a drop of oil in it and im running tens in a big heavy cressida.

show me an rb 25 that has done that.

toyotas are cheaper for parts, a complete engine only costs $500 rb 25s as far as i know cost like $1500. i havent seen a rb25 auto or manual make the power i am with simple bolt ons.

I don't know just seems there is a slight discrepancy between what was said was on the car and what is to get 500rwhp. Perhaps there was supposed to be comma between 'big turbo' and 'injectors', then again there probably should have been mention of the NO2 and plethora of other mods that look like they have gone into the car.

You're all a bit to quick with the eat your words sucka, want some soy sauce etc. 1JZ.747 says he has a 500rwhp cressida, ross says prove it, he does and everyone's a winner. I mean how many threads have been seen with 'my stock camry has 11ty rwkw'.

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the power delivery of both cars are totally different, the stock turbos and exhaust system is a joke ( if you have ever seend the dump pipe and manifold setup you will seriously laugh it has the good old T style dump pipe so the two turbos are constantly fighting against each other)...

the torque of the 1jz is huge like the car pulls from very down low but anything after 6,700rpm sounds like it is really struggling, (although i am only running a cat-back exhaust). But as soon as you bolt on that big single then you are cooking with gas.

as for chassis, i think toyota spent their money on developing the motor more than developing a sleek sporty chassis. I prefer the look of the r33 and it is definatly more nible than the soarer. But when it comes down to it if you time money and effort to do a conversion into a different chassis or do something like shane then you will never look back...

if only toyota released a similar chassis to the s13 with a 1jz just like me hehe :thumbsup:

DSC_1612.jpg

DSC_1613.jpg

DSC_1744.jpg

Shane-Cover.jpg

Shane-Zoom-1small.jpg

Shane-Zoom-2small.jpg

Shane-Zoom-3small.jpg

since this i have gone to bosch coils and microtechs x6box ignition system.

it now makes 440 rwhp no gas, and with a 36 shot 510rwhp. it has now run 10.70 et at 129.98 mph.

its a cressida not a soarer. the thread was rb 25 vs 1jzgte, not gtr versus soarer. but ill take the pepsi challenge against this gtr you speak of. ill be at wsid on good friday racing in the street tyre shoot out with BUSTER and 2RISMO. will we see your mates GTR there?

the good old, my mates got.i get it all the time. what do you have?

and for the record, i couldnt give 2 shits if you believe i am making the power ross, my results speak for themselves.

Awsome car shane, don't worry about what some of this guys say, it's a typical "I got a mate with a fully sick gtr" but my questions is, What do they have? not they're mates.

If i was doing a conversion, i'd pick the 1jz hands down. For the performance, and the cost. The blue celica in thats racing the cressida in those pics was also in zoom (if its the one i think it is) and was putting out from memory 350odd rwkw on pump fuel without gas, and just bolt on's and i think that had 264's in it... Martin donnon from zoom's manual soarer was putting out 320-350rwkw from memory on pump without gas as well... with stock internals

The best thing is as 1jz-747's car shows, they run for years like that. IF you go that much power out of an RB25 (thats a big if), i doubt it would last a year or 2 of hard driving...

Both the RB and 1J have strong gearboxes, so that doesnt really come into play.

If the engines were totally equal in performance and cost, i would still choose the 1J for the........ SOUND! Awesome sounding 6!

Edited by Cool Hand Luke
ROY -

Holy geeezuz tutty fark!

What does the RB25 weigh?

bugger both of them off, they are both buskets of sh1t if they weight that much. Get a 20B:)

And i am being serious. They are great performing, make more torque then an RB26 from the factory. They sound great, small and compact and light...i so want to put one in a 240Z...but my dream garage will always be a dream garage

If i was doing a conversion, i'd pick the 1jz hands down. For the performance, and the cost. The blue celica in thats racing the cressida in those pics was also in zoom (if its the one i think it is) and was putting out from memory 350odd rwkw on pump fuel without gas, and just bolt on's and i think that had 264's in it... Martin donnon from zoom's manual soarer was putting out 320-350rwkw from memory on pump without gas as well... with stock internals

The best thing is as 1jz-747's car shows, they run for years like that. IF you go that much power out of an RB25 (thats a big if), i doubt it would last a year or 2 of hard driving...

Both the RB and 1J have strong gearboxes, so that doesnt really come into play.

If the engines were totally equal in performance and cost, i would still choose the 1J for the........ SOUND! Awesome sounding 6!

the blue celica is matt from magic performance. yes it was also on the cover of zoom, about 2 editions before mine was.

he is running a 35/40 264 cams, xf throttle body ems ecu two rows of factory 1j injectors. he is making 490rwhp at 27 psi on avgas fuel. he hurt an engine last meeting out, but has put another stocker in. and he is playing with some head porting now. i would honestly say we are both on the knife edge of whats achieveable on factory internals.

that was my point..

also, the 2jz and supra v rb26 and gtr is the obvious top of the food chain for both parties.

$15K buys a r33 with rb25 or soarer with 1jz.

so to me, it is comparitive.

that was the point of this thread.

some good points have been made, some small penis's have been measured.

good thread.

roy... a rotiserie is only good for cooking my protein intake of chicken..

not to power cars.

Shane,

Wheres the sheet then?

Funny thing is a 33 gtr with a few mods equalling less than a few grand would leave your sourer looking for a family to sit in it.

I quite like sourers but i will have to see a dyno slip before I beleive 500hp Im sorry.

My mates gtr 33 blows mosts cars off the road at the moment and that has a lot less than that. Yes thats including supras.

Hey put up a slip and ill eat my words.

Ross - all i can say is that you got owned - hard.

Shane - nice car that's one monster ^^ i think i've actually seen that magazine before just cant remember when.

Go the Toyotas! ^^

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...