Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been hearing that the Neo engines can only crank out around 240rwkw on stock internals due to compression setup...Surely this is a load of crap huh? Its the last of the RB25DET... Engineered to perfection. If any, it should be able to pump out more then the R33.. My aim is for 350wrhp on stock internals. Does having a oil cooler help with reliability or is it only for track? Also geting a head gasket to lower the comp help much either in terms of reliabilty?? Or is it only needed for extreme boost levels?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112779-max-power-out-of-neo/
Share on other sites

From what i have seen

they do have GTR style Rods in them as i have pulled one apart and compared the rods sizes between regular RB25 & RB26 ones.As for the buckets in the head i compared them to gtr ones i have sitting here and they look similar but the shims underneath are different and to me they have different length Valve Springs.As for the oil pump they look the same didnt take to much notice to the difference between them.

As for power

More Timing + More fuel = Big Power = good for drag racing

Less Timing - Less fuel = Average power = good for track use

I am making 540 hp now out of a regular rb25.Thread Max HP out of Rb25.I aint gonna go on to much but its all to do with tuning and sufficent intercooler ETC to make safe Reliable power out of the RB standard Motors.

Comp in the NEO motors is what holds them back.Your tuner will need to work around this

The power output of these engines are often a question of fuel quality.

Long duration cams will lower compression pressure.

Bigger turbos/exhausthousings will lower backpressure.

Very high peak power numbers are possible at high revs, because of the short

stroke and rodlength/stroke ratio.

500nm at 4000rpm gives 380hp.

500nm at 8000rpm gives 760hp. both with the same combustion pressure.

my answer is I don`t know the limits..

Ok then who wants to buy a few sets of NEO RB25 rods to Upgrade their R33 Rb25s?Their the same as R33s sorry.Did you see that the intake buckets are Alloy?

I suggest anyone doing an RB25 rebuild take you up on this offer. Not only do they look the same but I've had someone look up the part numbers for R34 RB26 and R34 RB25DET and the numbers are the same.

Also the R33 and R34 RB25DET's both have 9:1 compression ratio which can be a limiting factor in putting lots of boost into them.

Bass Junky has about 250rwkw without lowering the compression ratio but he does have cams as do I.

There doesn't seem to be many people succesfully putting a lot of boost into a NEO without cams or lowering the CR. I can't think of any offhand.

The NEO does have solid lifters as does the RB26 but they are not the same.

The NEO exhaust valves are 1mm bigger than the RB26 items. This could help get more power from the same or less boost all other things equal.

It seems to me that without lowering the CR the NEO can take about as much boost as a non NEO. Depends how far you want to push it, how good/consistant your fuel is, and how well tuned it is. The power levels are probably similar, perhaps a slight advantage to the NEO. If injectors aren't being changed the NEO ones are 350cc but earlier ones are 370cc. which could be a limiting factor.

Yeah, we ran into a brick wall at about 250rwkw.

We have pulled timing for the most part and dial in 2 degrees for a squirt every now and then.

The engine wouldn't take any more timing or boost. I'm running about 0.9 bar with Bp Ultimate.

260 degree cams.

If the answer to a bucket load more power is a hea gasket, I'll be wrapped.

BASS OUT

Yeah, we ran into a brick wall at about 250rwkw.

We have pulled timing for the most part and dial in 2 degrees for a squirt every now and then.

The engine wouldn't take any more timing or boost. I'm running about 0.9 bar with Bp Ultimate.

260 degree cams.

If the answer to a bucket load more power is a hea gasket, I'll be wrapped.

BASS OUT

Try some Shell Optimax Extreme 100 ron, dropped the knock from 70 to zero in the R33. No other changes. :mage:

We have had 305 rwkw out of an R34GTT. Tomei 260 Poncams, R33GTR intercooler, ported and polished cylinder head, standard head gasket (I don't use thick ones) and a Garret GT30. It wasn't all nice to drive, too peaky, lots of lag, poor throtle response. So we went back to 265 rwkw (GCG high flow) at 1.1 bar, much nicer to drive and ultimately faster point to point. With Extreme I reckon we could have got to 280 rwkw at 1.2 bar, which would be plenty.

:D cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
  • 4 months later...
I suggest anyone doing an RB25 rebuild take you up on this offer. Not only do they look the same but I've had someone look up the part numbers for R34 RB26 and R34 RB25DET and the numbers are the same.

Also the R33 and R34 RB25DET's both have 9:1 compression ratio which can be a limiting factor in putting lots of boost into them.

Bass Junky has about 250rwkw without lowering the compression ratio but he does have cams as do I.

There doesn't seem to be many people succesfully putting a lot of boost into a NEO without cams or lowering the CR. I can't think of any offhand.

The NEO does have solid lifters as does the RB26 but they are not the same.

The NEO exhaust valves are 1mm bigger than the RB26 items. This could help get more power from the same or less boost all other things equal.

It seems to me that without lowering the CR the NEO can take about as much boost as a non NEO. Depends how far you want to push it, how good/consistant your fuel is, and how well tuned it is. The power levels are probably similar, perhaps a slight advantage to the NEO. If injectors aren't being changed the NEO ones are 350cc but earlier ones are 370cc. which could be a limiting factor.

im getting 291rwkw with 8.9:1compression.. and 20psi boost...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...