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Hey i havn't posted much yet as i have just bought my skyline and don't know too much about it yet

It is an auto

the question i had was takeoff from a standing start. The car is sluggish and doesn't even hint of wanting any wheelspin. my mate's V6 VN commodore gets wheelspin and my 'line kills that thing.

are all auto's like this? everything seems OK after the turbo kicks in, just wondering i thought it might be a little quicker from the line. Another friend with spec r 200sx thinks it should be faster.

Cheers,

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Ive got a manual gtst and ive gotta say the performance down low is pretty sluggish. Ive gotta launch it pretty hard to get wheel spin. The RB20 has most of its power at the top of the rev range so you gotta give em plenty of herbs!

Most turbo cars are like this because under boost theyre nothing more than a low compression normally aspirated motor... which is well... boring! Its just the RB20 in particular seems to have ALL the power at the top and next to none at the bottom.

Ways of improving it? Exhaust system... get a nice dump pipe/front pipe combo, nice fat 3 inch all the way back. Improves midrange performance ALOT.

NA motors will usually have better bottom end. I remember driving my pulsar again shortly after i got the skyline and i was amazed at how well it pulled from down low. Whereas im always having to change down in the skyline to keep the revs up in the power band (not all the time, just when im fanging it).

I presume the extra cubes of the RB25 would help in the R33's... but ive never driven one to find out.

Red17

Guest TTZ32

Hi Stall torque convertor is an excellent mod for any auto turbo. Very cheap, should cost no more than $250-00 (plus installation if you can't do it youself)

Only downside is you have to remove the box, and it will probably take a few days to have it modified.

Should drop at LEAST 0.5 sec of you 0-100 times, and even more over the 1/4 mile. Really makes a difference off the line, especially with a small capacity turbo engine........Hello wheelspin:)

Originally posted by WazR32GTSt

the question i had was takeoff from a standing start. The car is sluggish and doesn't even hint of wanting any wheelspin.

Have you checked your timing? Advancing it helped alot with my old R32 auto GTSt. Mine had 225/50 FM901's and would wheel spin on launch easy enough... btw, whats it do 0-100? Mine dead stock was circa 6.6, with zorst you should be able to better that if its in good health, might help pinpoint if your down on power or not.

Originally posted by red17

I presume the extra cubes of the RB25 would help in the R33's...

They're alot more responsive down low, lots more pull...

None at all. Factory box with paper filter and full factory exhaust (except the cat got gutted when it expired). I've had people comment it was fairly fast for a stocker as it averaged 15.5@150Kph, (and 15.3@153 at 0.8bar (small bleed valve), it actually went slower with more boost, logical with the restrictive exhaust/intake) . But I just thought it was kinda average??

Btw, I sold it now have a R33 GTS25t auto, and the suckers slower.. 7.5s to the 100... somethings wrong...

TTZ32,

hw does a hi-stall torque converter work? is 250 new or can i source it second hand? where do i find one?

does it affect the normal driving of the car or is it something which only makes any difference when you are taking off hard?

i have never heard of this before...

Cecam,

i thought advancing the timing when running on 98RON at the pump is not a great idea if you don't want knoch occuring. plus the thing is that sluggish that timing could not lift it much better.

i'm thinking of cleaning the AFM. might see how this goes then will reset ECU and try some 0-100 times.

Waz.

P.s. is your nick name suppost to represent 'cecum' which is part of the large intestine??

Guest TTZ32
Originally posted by WazR32GTSt

TTZ32,

hw does a hi-stall torque converter work? is 250 new or can i source it second hand? where do i find one?

does it affect the normal driving of the car or is it something which only makes any difference when you are taking off hard?

i have never heard of this before...

$250 is to modify your original convertor, or you could get second hand one done so you can still drive your car while it's being worked on.

Hi stall convertor works by increasing the torque multiplication, it allows the engine to rev closer to peak torque before driving the gearbox. If you put your left foot on the brake so the car can't move and try to accelerate, the engine will probably only rev to around 1800rpm before it tries to spin the wheels, with the Hi stall convertor it'll rev to around 3000rpm which is closer to peak torque and boost threshold. So instead of having a lot of lag from 1800rpm as the engine struggles to build revs and come on boost, it happens almost instantly.

The car will feel very lively around town especially off the line, it'll take a few more rpm to get up gutters etc, but once moving it drives normally.

Advantage of modifying the original convertor is you get to keep the lock-up.

Also definitely worthwhile checking yor base timing and perhaps increasing it a little, will help a LOT at low rpm.

Originally posted by WazR32GTSt

Cecam,

i thought advancing the timing when running on 98RON at the pump is not a great idea if you don't want knoch occuring. plus the thing is that sluggish that timing could not lift it much better.  

You should be able to advance the timing a reasonable amount before you get any detonation, and timing can and will make the car sluggish if its been retarded for any reason. Just remember to advance it in small steps.

P.s. is your nick name suppost to represent 'cecum' which is part of the large intestine??  

Large intestine? Ummm.. not that I'm aware of, its just something different...

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