Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was wondering what sort of times and mph most quick cars were running to the half track down the quarter. By quick i mean 10 sec cars using ET Streets or BFG's with pump fuel. Not fussed about slick tyred cars or cars running NOS.

The best 660 i have run is a 7.280 at 95.77mph.... but was wondering what half track i need to see to be confident the car will run mid to low 10's.

I basically want to run some half track passes and be sure the car will run a mid to low 10 before i get booted for not having the appropriate safety gear

Brad

Was wondering what sort of times and mph most quick cars were running to the half track down the quarter. By quick i mean 10 sec cars using ET Streets or BFG's with pump fuel. Not fussed about slick tyred cars or cars running NOS.

The best 660 i have run is a 7.280 at 95.77mph.... but was wondering what half track i need to see to be confident the car will run mid to low 10's.

I basically want to run some half track passes and be sure the car will run a mid to low 10 before i get booted for not having the appropriate safety gear

Brad

IDO11s,

In a late model IRS car I'd say you'd be pulling 110 MPH at half track to run a low ten second pass. 660' time would be 6.6-6.7s?

IDO11s,

In a late model IRS car I'd say you'd be pulling 110 MPH at half track to run a low ten second pass. 660' time would be 6.6-6.7s?

6.5 @ 110 is on the money for a low ten

for a high ten see Adrians previous post.

I have a better idea....let Andrea have a go....i think she deserves a try before the car gets banned.

Edited by DiRTgarage

thanks for all the replies guys. I was hoping i wasnt to far off the money but it appears i am still a fair way from what i need to be. Hopefully the new found power will help but i guess only time will tell. Bring on Friday!!!

Paul, i tried talking Andrea into racing it herself but she isnt worried about having a steer.... for some reason all she is worried about is the car going fast and it sadens me to think she hasnt even been able to enjoy it herself. But, its her choice and i guess i just have to accept it. I just hope i can do all the work we have put into the car justice this Friday and run a decent time with it. It will make both of us very happy if i can :):P

thanks for all the replies guys. I was hoping i wasnt to far off the money but it appears i am still a fair way from what i need to be. Hopefully the new found power will help but i guess only time will tell. Bring on Friday!!!

Paul, i tried talking Andrea into racing it herself but she isnt worried about having a steer.... for some reason all she is worried about is the car going fast and it sadens me to think she hasnt even been able to enjoy it herself. But, its her choice and i guess i just have to accept it. I just hope i can do all the work we have put into the car justice this Friday and run a decent time with it. It will make both of us very happy if i can :(:P

Ive seen first hand the upgrades you have done since last time at the track, id say the 10's in the bag!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...