Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

COOL so manual it is, now all i need is a good car to start with or get one with mods.

So what does one look out for when buying an R33????????

do the tests i mentioned.

mechanical inspection

compression test

panel beater inspection

and take it for a drive etc obviously.

look in the FS section, there's been a shit load of series 2's for sale atm....and always a lot of series 1's.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I live in Tas.

As to modding it over time, WHIFE+CHILD+HOMELOAN=DO IT NOW, or never do it at all. like i said i have a total of no more the 17k, but prefer to only spend 15k.

How many k's on the odo is too many to bother with.

Also what are the things to look out for (i have asked and no responce)

The thing is i have looked at so many cars, i am LOST. plus i can't seam just to do a search in the forum for just R33 skylines.

As to what to look out for, i mean things that are commonly wrong with skylines or things to check for that have and haven't been done?

are you even reading the replies people are giving you?

if you're looking to spend $15k on a car, then pay insurance, and have a max budget of $17k, what mods do you think you're going to get?

if you're aiming for 200rwkw on that budget, sorry, but you're dreaming.

you'll need full turbo back exhaust

front mount

boost controller

and probably an ECU..

there goes your budget.

best bet is to find a cheap series 1, chances are it will have exhaust and front mount already.

YES i have been reading, and being a mech engineer 90% of the stuff i have got lined up for wholesale prices, and installs are free.

KKR-430 turbo is $820 deliverd

full 3" ex with hiflo cat and dump pipe is $880

Intercoller is $480 deliverd

Filter and CAi setup, $100

APEXI SAFCII for starters $320 from the US

Boost controller $45

Boost guage plus Mix guage and pod $220 form the US

FPR $100

wheels and brakes i already have.

all the other bits i make myself

Edited by WogsRus

^^^

That's actually pretty good.

There isn't much difference between series 1s and 2s, if you can get a s1 in better condition go for it.

That said, i've seen PLENTY of s2 R33 manual, turbos go in your price bracket of 15-17k. Just wait for the right one.

a skyline will cost you much more money then you think.

do ELABORATE.

I am not to sur as to what will. I have a 207kW ATW magna, all the work was done myself. I have doen PLENTY of atmo engines, this will be my first TURBO.

COOL so manual it is, now all i need is a good car to start with or get one with mods.

So what does one look out for when buying an R33????????

There is a thread that covers all the things when buying a car although most of it is gibberish talk when you have no clue about cars (like me). I suggest you grab a mate who knows his Skylines and head out. When I bought my car I looked at two cars that day. One was from Power Rd, it went OK but inside it had some little issues, also at the back the car had some screws thing embedded into the boot floor... might have been involved in a crash.. who knows.. it also didnt have ABS breakes. In the end I chose the second car from SSV, it looked like it was well looked after and my mate aprooved it too... it was an auto... im lazy so auto is perfect for me... if you want manual then get manual, dont buy the car that u dont want...

the car that you found in carsals looks like a good buy, and will save you some money as there are already some mods on it. Also i noticed that in your parts list there was nothing about an ecu. Im just wondering if you are intending to purchase one of these at a later date or are you going to do without. My preferance would be to buy a power fc, but they cost 2k with the hand controller included.

the car that you found in carsals looks like a good buy, and will save you some money as there are already some mods on it. Also i noticed that in your parts list there was nothing about an ecu. Im just wondering if you are intending to purchase one of these at a later date or are you going to do without. My preferance would be to buy a power fc, but they cost 2k with the hand controller included.

they're like $950 brand new and delivered...add $400-$500 for tuning...

i will get an SAFCII for starters and the stock ecu fixed up.

After that is all done i am not going to use a PFC but propably a full Motec or Wolf 3D

fix up the stock ECU? what do you mean?

the R33 ECU isnt like the 32's....the 32's can be remapped etc, but to do that to the 33's costs more than an aftermarket ECU apparently.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Make sure to have the block checked for cracking etc before doing anything.
    • Pull it out. Put a suction hose on it drawing from a bucket of petrol. Put a discharge hose on it pointing back into the bucket. Add 12V. That will tell you if it works at all. Then put it back in, turn the engine on, and see if there is 12V on the terminals. That would suggest that it runs when the car does and adds its "capacity" to the total pumping system.
    • So you're telling me this is an external fuel pump? I've had the car for at least 6 years now and it's been there the entire time. I had the car tuned a couple years ago and I had the shop do the fuel system, including a new in-tank Proflow 340 which shit itself about a year later and I replaced it with the same model. I find it odd that they didn't remove this or even make mention of it. I seriously had no idea what it was. How would I test if it's functioning?
    • Don't take it as a guarantee. It's all a game of statistics. And on top of that, smooth over a thick layer of "quality of spanner spinning" as a further Gaussian curve of probability of failure. You play games at anything above ~400 HP, and you're using up margins in terms of engineering and luck.
    • Aye, everything is being touched and all the parts that are responsible for the oiling issues are also fixed. (Crank collar, billet prp oil pump, head return to sump, yada yada yada)  Everything used is of reputable brands like greddy, prp etc. My tuner did mention we’d keep the torque on the “lower” side.   glad to read that my engine won’t blow up on me lmao 
×
×
  • Create New...