Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yay for me. After a couple of months waiting for me to choose coilovers and save some $ (I get paid monthly) my GTR is finally back on the road with some new goodies. ;)

GReddy Type S coilovers

dba 4000 slotted rotors + Ferodo DS2500 pads

Tyre rotation

Wheel alignment

Dyno tune producing 248.5 rwkW at Boost Worx :)

Now I just have to wait for this double demerit point long weekend to be over and go for some hill runs. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113463-guess-whos-back-back-again/
Share on other sites

are you still selling it? was looking at it on carsales this arvo.

might see you up in the hills as i think i live up near you, have fun ;)

edit - sorry just noticed that you have two of them.

Edited by Whiplash

I'm selling the white GTR.

This thread was refering to the grey one. My bad... I should have stated that.

I jump in the white GTR after using the Pug as a daily driver and think "F**k this is a great car"

Now I can jump in the grey one again and just start giggling. I love this car!

Edited by writeoff
did u replace the rotors all round or only front are the 32 rotors able to me machined to fit a 33 in a 4 stud pattern ?? so many questions :P

I only replaced the front rotors but put new brake pads on both front and rear.

I don't know if the rotors can be machined to fit a 33 in a 4 stud pattern. The old rotors are gone. They were under 28mm thick and therefore not street legal.

I've been around... on the forum at least. But I haven't been on a cruise since the grey GTR's front passenger coilover seized on the late night cruise we did to Gawler a few months ago. Since then it has lay dormant waiting for new coilovers (turned out the rear driver's side one had seized as well). I went to check point 3 (BP South Rd, St Marys) in the white GTR for the Victor cruise (which had the best turn out I've seen for a SAU event) but didn't go on the actual cruise. Now I can mingle with the 'lines again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...