Jump to content
SAU Community

Repairing Cracked Bumper... Help!

Wobbz

By Wobbz,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Wobbz Contributor

Wobbz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey peoples,

I have a GENUINE R32 GTR bumper that will be going on my GTS/t soon.. it however, has two cracks just near where the area under the front lights goes in to the grill area... if you get what i mean...see pic... the red lines!

As these bumpers are made of plastic, what can I use to "hold" the cracks together ? Fibreglass the backside, then fill with resin, sand, and body filler for any minor imperfections ? Or maybe glue a SMALL piece of wood (eg. plywood) to hold the gap together, then fibreglass over the wood ... then sand, fill the front side with resin, then bog?

Has anyone got a guide to bodywork like this?

Cheers,

Jel

post-10015-1144924489.jpg

Edited by Wobbz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113469-repairing-cracked-bumper-help/
Share on other sites
BOOSTA Collaborator

BOOSTA

Posted
Posted

Take it to a plastic interior repairer, he'll have it plastic welded back together in no time.... my cracks were huge on my GTR front bar and it was fixed perfect!! U cant even see where the repair work was done. Plus they will prime it was plastic primer so it'll be ready to paint again!

Wobbz Contributor

Wobbz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Take it to a plastic interior repairer, he'll have it plastic welded back together in no time.... my cracks were huge on my GTR front bar and it was fixed perfect!! U cant even see where the repair work was done. Plus they will prime it was plastic primer so it'll be ready to paint again!

Thank you, for all your help! (both of you) :)

Although I still have to wait till monday! ;)

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

some good auto body repairers .. and definately motorbike repair shops can weld plastic.. but if its a big crack... like a bit cracked off, most places wont touch it.. its not as string anymore and the bar will more than likely crack again..

HannahMc Collaborator

HannahMc

Posted
Posted

Just a suggestion, but the way you seem so worried about the state of your car, unless you know exactly what you're doing, it might not be a good idea to try something so risky on your own car. :domokun:

Well, that's just me at least. I don't trust myself to do important things I've never done. Gotta practice it all first.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...