Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G_day mate

I use Mobil 1 5w-50 its 65.99 at autobarn

If you buy a oil filter and pod ya get 15% off

i got a pod on special for $30

oil filter for$8

Mobil 1 oil $65.99 gran total of $104 all that for $88 worth a look mate.....

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you have to remember that alot of people don't just baby their cars but regularly thrash them either drags/drift, general spirited driving...

and australian conditions are pretty warm compared to the USA where it snows in winter thus we can use thicker oil.

In USA they do have summer too. Places like Texas or New Mexico are pretty damn hot during some part of the Summer.

trex101... you seem to know your oil...

do you recommend motul 4100 turbolight 10w 40?

Motul 4100 is semi-synthetic, i couldn't find it's product data sheet so i don't know how's it cold flow or HTHS. IMO, i would choose a oil with good startup flow (depend on ambient temp) and high HTHS, how you know the figure? Check out it's product data sheet.

what is the viscosity range of the motul 300v ?

The 300V range has quite a few viscosities to choose from, but the 300V chrono is 10W-40

here's the list:

300V LE MANS 20W60

300V COMPETITION 15W50

300V CHRONO 10W40

300V POWER 5W40

300V POWER RACING 5W30

300V HIGH-RPM 0W20

300V 4T COMPETITION 15W50

300V 4T SPORT 10W40

300V 4T FACTORY LINE 5W40

see -> http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke01.html

In USA they do have summer too. Places like Texas or New Mexico are pretty damn hot during some part of the Summer.

yes, but those people that live up north close to canada don't have to worry about very hot climates and so would choose an oil that is suitable for very cold conditions and moderate temps.

People living in hotter average climates will choose a slightly thicker oil to match the average temps.

You can't expect people to change oil depending on what season it is, you just chose something that suits the average tempreture and driving style of where they live- you don't have to be exact with the viscosity, as long as the oil is good quality, changed regularly and is 'about right' with the viscosity, its good enough. :bunny:

I use Mobil Synth S 10W40.

Used it in my rotor, and now use it in my 32 gtst. Don't have any probs. Cheapish ($30), but not nasty. Just bought another 2 x 5L yesterday at Repco's sale.

Fixxxer

You should have heard my mechanic go off at me about that stuff, mobil 1, penrite stuff etc. He said ONLY motul as its easy enough to get now, and not all that exxy. The turbolite stuff being fine for resonably stock cars. He does stock it, but he also tells me to go get it from autobarn as its cheaper than him selling it to me. So he isnt getting anything out of it.

The 300V range has quite a few viscosities to choose from, but the 300V chrono is 10W-40

here's the list:

300V LE MANS 20W60

300V COMPETITION 15W50

300V CHRONO 10W40

300V POWER 5W40

300V POWER RACING 5W30

300V HIGH-RPM 0W20

300V 4T COMPETITION 15W50

300V 4T SPORT 10W40

300V 4T FACTORY LINE 5W40

see -> http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke01.html

Hi mate, u reckon 15w50 is too thick for street use for a R33 GTR? im currently using Motul 4100 10w40.

Hi mate, u reckon 15w50 is too thick for street use for a R33 GTR? im currently using Motul 4100 10w40.

If you choose 15w50 oil, you must not floor your ride for the first 20min before your engine oil is up to temp. Anyway 15w50 will cause more startup wear, not suitable for short trip or city driving.

15W is the cold viscosity which isn't hugely different to 10W - the difference in wear will be minimal

If you choose 15w50 oil, you must not floor your ride for the first 20min before your engine oil is up to temp. Anyway 15w50 will cause more startup wear, not suitable for short trip or city driving.
Hi mate, u reckon 15w50 is too thick for street use for a R33 GTR? im currently using Motul 4100 10w40.

if your having any problems with oil consumption then a thicker oil will help. A 15w-50 is good for summer use/thrashing, and if you get a full synthetic like motul 300V its better then the 4100 as thats only a semi-synthetic so despite the thicker oil a 15w-50 will be better then a semi 10w-40 as the motul full synthetics use ester component in the oil which greatly reduces startup wear. Just look at their website it explians the benefits of fully synthetic ester oils :)

ester benefits -> http://www.motul.com.au/fact_sheets/estel_oil.html

thanx guys, i might give the 300v 15w50 a try next time, see how i go.

I know with my FTO which rev's out to about 8k I can't use more than about 30 (operating) in it. If u use a 50 (good for stopping tappets etc!! which is good) is it too thick at high revs...I mean we usually rev it out when we get it some...

Although I'm not sure if 40 or 50 will be much different..maybe the Motul oil is better..15W-50 would stop a lot of tappet noise for sure...10W-40 seems pretty normal though...would be a low enough viscosity to be safe at high revs.

KJ

I know with my FTO which rev's out to about 8k I can't use more than about 30 (operating) in it. If u use a 50 (good for stopping tappets etc!! which is good) is it too thick at high revs...I mean we usually rev it out when we get it some...

Although I'm not sure if 40 or 50 will be much different..maybe the Motul oil is better..15W-50 would stop a lot of tappet noise for sure...10W-40 seems pretty normal though...would be a low enough viscosity to be safe at high revs.

KJ

Thinner oil will has less drag on the engine component during operation. It will actually increase hp and improve your FC with thinner oil but the cons are lower HTHS at 150'c. This is the oil thickness when the oil reach 150'c during load or stress.

The best oil would be a thin 30wt oil with high HTHS. It will give you good hp and FC plus great protection during full throttle run.

IMO Redline 5w30 with HTHS of 3.8 are make up of mostly polyolester (group V) base stock couple with killer additives are the best money can buy. The oil film strength at high temp are stronger than most 40wt fully synthetic oil in the market.

FYI Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0w40 HTHS are only 3.6

true, and if you get a full synthetic 15W then there will be no difference :D

Whether an oil is synthetic or not makes no difference to the viscosity. A 20W50 mineral oil will be exactly the same as a 20W50 synthetic oil. How long it stays like that is a whole different issue, however. Use a synthetic oil as it will keep the motor cleaner (ie allow less black gunk to build up) when the thing gets exposed to high temperatures.

Secondly there is a considerable diference between an oil with a low temp viscosity of 5 and one with a low temp viscosity of 10. Try it next time you buy some oil. Pick up the two different containers in the shop & slop them around a bit. You will be surprised....

Lastly, it will take longer to fill the motor with say a 10W60 Castrol than a 5W50 Mobil. Have just done this (I used some of both as I had some Mobil 1 left over) & I can assure you there is a large difference. This is a good indicator of the diference in the oils viscosity.

Semi-Synthetic or Full is the go and you won't go wrong with the Motul 4100 Turbolight although I would use the 10W over the 15W, especially in a street driven turbo engine. Check your factory engine requirements.

I've been using Penrite HPR10 for over 60,000km and it's fine (RB25DET).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
×
×
  • Create New...