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Thinner oil will has less drag on the engine component during operation. It will actually increase hp and improve your FC with thinner oil but the cons are lower HTHS at 150'c. This is the oil thickness when the oil reach 150'c during load or stress.

The best oil would be a thin 30wt oil with high HTHS. It will give you good hp and FC plus great protection during full throttle run.

IMO Redline 5w30 with HTHS of 3.8 are make up of mostly polyolester (group V) base stock couple with killer additives are the best money can buy. The oil film strength at high temp are stronger than most 40wt fully synthetic oil in the market.

FYI Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0w40 HTHS are only 3.6

Thanks for the info...howveer I'm not sure what HTHS means. Currently I use the 300v 5W-30 in my FTO and plan to use the 10W-40 in my R33...I'm intrested to understand what HTHS means. - High Temp/High Sheer?? not sure exactly how thsi relates...I'm sure u will let me know :P

I agree that the redline product is awsome...although its quite expensive form memory...

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I have found that since I got my skyline the oil seems to get black very quickly. Im talking it was changed when I got it and its really black now after like 1500-2000k's. Is that normal ?

Are you using open pod filter? If yes, change back to stock. Open pod let in more dust so oil get darken quicker.

Edited by Trex101
Thanks for the info...howveer I'm not sure what HTHS means. Currently I use the 300v 5W-30 in my FTO and plan to use the 10W-40 in my R33...I'm intrested to understand what HTHS means. - High Temp/High Sheer?? not sure exactly how thsi relates...I'm sure u will let me know :D

I agree that the redline product is awsome...although its quite expensive form memory...

Yes, HTHS stand for High Temp High Shear using ASTM D4683. It the oil viscosity under hydrodynamic lubrication at 150'c, a good indicator of (under hydrodynamic lubrication) wear protection in high load and stress situation. HTHS will drop if the oil do shear over useage/time, so choosing a good oil is very important for engine wear protection.

Synthetic oil do normally shear less than mineral but only UOA (used oil analysis) can tell the condition of your oil and engine.

I have found that since I got my skyline the oil seems to get black very quickly. Im talking it was changed when I got it and its really black now after like 1500-2000k's. Is that normal ?

Do u do lots of short trips like under 5 mins if so i find the oil can go black very quick , If u do no short trips and every time the car is started it runs for over 1/2 hour the oil seems to stay more clear

I have found this in a few cars that I have owned , i use to live about 40mins from work and my oil would look great up to 5000km now i live 6mins from work and my oil go black very quick , has anybody else notice this???????

Get the best oil you can afford. Synthetic if possible!

0w/30 - 5w/30 - 5w/40 - 10w/40 they will all do the job.

The best thing about synthetic lubes is not the base itself but the amount of additive they can carry!

Inside info for ya :)

DONT GET CAUGHT UP IN MARKETING B/S :D ALL OF THE TOP BRANDS ARE GOOD!

Are you using open pod filter? If yes, change back to stock. Open pod let in more dust so oil get darken quicker.

how can a pod filter affect oil quality? If a pod filter is properly oiled it will filter the air just as good as paper elements.

how can a pod filter affect oil quality? If a pod filter is properly oiled it will filter the air just as good as paper elements.

This is what the filter manufacturer wants you to think. More airflow will result in more dirt ingestion even with well oil filter.

Oh don't overoil the filter, you may damage the AFM sensor. It's good preventive practice to use plastic safe electro contact cleaner to clean the sensor.. prolong sensor life and accuracy.

I recommend Motul, its a bit expensive but very good, Autobarn stocks it...

if you're after a high quality oil, Motul definately. Mine is stock at the moment, but after i had the major service done to it, all fluids gear, diff, engine were all replaced with Motul and I couldn't believe I could actually feel the difference in driving, especially in the gear stick!

This is what the filter manufacturer wants you to think. More airflow will result in more dirt ingestion even with well oil filter.

Oh don't overoil the filter, you may damage the AFM sensor. It's good preventive practice to use plastic safe electro contact cleaner to clean the sensor.. prolong sensor life and accuracy.

thats not exactly true. More surface area allow for more airflow with a given restriction. I use UniFilter pod filters they have heaps better filter protection than paper and most other pod filters...

u wanna know the specs (most engine wear is caused by dust >> 15 micron)

Paper filiments have holes that allow dust of 30-40 microns through

Oiled paper << 20microns

Cotton Gauze -<< 45 microns

Unifilter Oiled Foam << 4 microns

now for restriction ratings..

Paper as a base rating

Oiled paper ~2% more restrictive

Cotton Gauze - ~25% LESS restrictive

Unifilter Oiled Foam ~24% LESS restrictive

Unifilter is used by leading racing teams...its Aussie made and simly one of the best designs around.

Edited by khunjeng
thats not exactly true. More surface area allow for more airflow with a given restriction. I use UniFilter pod filters they have heaps better filter protection than paper and most other pod filters...

u wanna know the specs (most engine wear is caused by dust >> 15 micron)

Paper filiments have holes that allow dust of 30-40 microns through

Oiled paper << 20microns

Cotton Gauze -<< 45 microns

Unifilter Oiled Foam << 4 microns

now for restriction ratings..

Paper as a base rating

Oiled paper ~2% more restrictive

Cotton Gauze - ~25% LESS restrictive

Unifilter Oiled Foam ~24% LESS restrictive

Unifilter is used by leading racing teams...its Aussie made and simly one of the best designs around.

Some interesting read on air filter.

Autospeed

BITOG

Some interesting read on air filter.

Autospeed

BITOG

as usual they are not really correct...but results off all my CAI setups show (on my fto) has 7kwatw more with the new pipe form the pod to the TB and with the new snokrel from the grill into the boxed area. I have seen similar gains with my CAI setup on my R33.

never just put a pod and sit it in the engine bay...total waste of time as they were saying. box it up...get more air into the area etc..its CAI after all...

lol now how is this about oil?? :D

Edited by khunjeng

After reading all your rants... its still doesnt answer the guys questions...

What is a good oil for what he drives?

I am in the same delima, i have an R33 GTST its pritty stock, puts out 174RWKW and i ocasionally go to a drag meet and once every three months go to a track day.

I serviced my car about 2000k ago, but i am going to track day on the 29th. I am planning to change the oil so i have a fresh batch for oran park.

What should i use so my car lasts the day but also the oil which has been used on the day will also last another 3000Km's?

kthanxbi

IMHO - just use Mobil 1. It is good oil, good viscosity range, good price.

If you are going to a track day, 2000km old oil is fine. Keep an eye on the oil temp (if you have a guage) & check the oil for blackness (from blow by) when you get home. Beyond that there is nothing particular to worry about other than keeping the oil level to the correct level.

You don't need to do anything special about changing oil for the drags as the thing is only on throttle for 11 & a bit seconds at a time.

This is what the filter manufacturer wants you to think. More airflow will result in more dirt ingestion even with well oil filter.

hmm, so how does the air actually dirty the oil, presuming a good engine with not much blow-by?

hmm, so how does the air actually dirty the oil, presuming a good engine with not much blow-by?

This is a interesting article by Wearcheck on accelerated wear cause by dirt/dust ingestion. It will explain more on how the dirt is ingest and wear it cause.

Wearcheck

Edited by Trex101

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