Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, but T1R's aren't cheap.....which is what he's asking for.

We all know they're awesome tyres.

I obviously get a good deal then, didn't realise you guys paid more for them, if its any help my mate uses 19inch nankangs on his 32 GTR and reckons they're good enough (he also drives like a looney).

benm mabye if you get better tryes you might run a better time 300+kw and you 12.7????

My slow 12.7@112mph has nothing to do with my rear tyres being worn Nankangs.

i am perrty shore with 250kw+ you can run a 12, with 300+kw you should be running low 12s all the time

With everything running properly and a decent driver it should be mid 11's actually.

mabye its your tyres ??? Nankangs are carp

Actually it's a combination of my clutch fluid lines needing a bleed and only having the car for 4mths.

For all I know my rear Nankangs may have done 20,000km. I certainly wouldnt put new Kankangs on my car (i'd use Bridgestone, Michelin or Pirelli) but they are fine for now until they need replacing towards the end of this year.

I think Nankangs are the best china-made tyre available in australia at the moment. If you want to use them to get from point A to B, there shouldn't be any problems. Just avoid the other china made brands like Wanli, Dark Horse, Ling Long etc! :)

I think Nankangs are the best china-made tyre available in australia at the moment.

That's like saying that Dobermans have the best tasting dog shit.

I don't give a f**k where my tyres are made, or even who makes them. All I care about is how they perform, and Nankangs, Wanli's etc don't.

Edited by scathing
That's like saying that Dobermans have the best tasting dog shit.

Thanks for that post....ive just laughed a mouthful of orange juice all over my monitor and keyboard.

it was piss funny.....well done "scathing"

Just a quick response on cheaper tyres, I don't have Nankangs but

Another brand worth checking out are the GT Radials as they are a reasonable tyre, I had the Champiro 55's and they Stood upto a couple of track days quite well as well as being a good road tyre, though at the very end of their life mine didn't have much grip.

um i work for a tyre company and basically nankangs are the cheapest crapiest chinese import tyres that we sell. My skyline had them on it when i got it and it was impossible to keep the back (or even the front) lined up under acceleration into corners out of them and just hammering it from the lights.

The compound on them really is horrible, when i took mine off it took me and the guys at the tyre store about 20 minutes to get them both off just because of the crappy compound there made up of and absolutely no flex, try pulling the tyres off a hot wheels car. Ended up breaking 1 tyre bar and splitting the tyre a bit. I put some dunlop spmaxx's on it and now i can accelerate out of a wet corner with no trouble and am totally comfortable on the great ocean road and the black spur in all conditions at most speeds.

It handles a hell of a lot better. Down side is there about $300 a tyre. I got all mine for $300 for 4 because of discounts. I really suggest you stay away from nankangs, unless u want them just to shred and hoon on, there a huge joke in the tyre industry

What about Federal SS595 tyres? Theyre cheap also. I got quoted $148 for 235/45-17.

Federal also make a semi slick track day tyre 595RS 235/45-17 $330

i have them on my GTR, so far got nothin against them, maybe havent driven the car hard enough yet.

Hey mate,

I have a decent set of 3 piece 16 inchs dressed with some cheap tyres (firestones) and im pretty confident they handle better then my new 18's.

I recently purchased a set of 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 rims for me car dressed in Nankang 235/40 and 265/35 on the rear. These tyres are horrible. The only thing i like about them is they seem to be a little more predictable then the 16's.

My main issue with them is stopping power in the wet... mine lock up quite easily.

By the way, mines a gtst not a gtr :sick: didnt see that bit.

Edited by bilbo117

I've got Nankang 235/40 R18's "Ultra Sport NS-II" on the 34 and had them since I bought it, they're reasonably good in the dry and handle OK, but in the wet they're pretty shocking. Never forget the time I first drove them in the wet... lol :). Go for performance/handling over looks any day when it comes it tyres especially.

I use mine for daily driving and don't drift/drag so it's fine for me. If I were to be on a race track I would probably be fearful for my life :D

Nankangs are great for drift ... heheh I've seen lots of cefiros with them. I used them on the front with some smaller wheels/tyres on the back. I must say they got chewed but seemed to perform ok otherwise. I'd definately use them on any car that gets taken on drift outtings - they were predictable and I didn't feel guilty using them harshly.

Wouldn't put em on a skyline but I'd put them onto the cefiro again if I was short of cash.. they're definately a shit tyre so I just wouldn't expect to be beating civics through bends.

Yeah i have Nankang NS-IIs on my R33 GTS25t, 225/40/18 Front - 235/40/18 Rear. I have them as i live in Broome WA and we have pretty shocking roads up here, gravel everwhere, sand on the roads, and huge potholes from the monsoonal rains :D. I couldt really justify spending some big $$$s for great tyres knowing that they would wear excessively quick without even giving them heaps. The nankangs are pretty horrible in the wet, wheels have spun on wet roads, and i wasnt even giving any. Although i think they are fine for a daily driver type tyre, wouldnt do any spiritied driving on them though. Have to say the old 225/50/16 federals i had were better than these. Going to go the 235/40/18 federals next time for $249 (Broome prices ;) ).

cheers

Evil

Well I've got Nankang NS-II and I'm surprised how good they are really. Now, they're not as good as the Japanese/German tyres but they are much much better than really cheap tyres used to be. They actually have a good feel. However I do qualify this post by saying that I've never had other tyres on this particular car. (and yes I've driven on "good" tyres)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...