Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got myself a r33 front and rear calipers. Previous owner painted it in YUCKY sky blue colour.

Just wondering what do u think is the best way to remove the paint? I'm planning to leave it unpainted.

cheers

Edited by freshjive

I used a pressure-pack can of paint stripper. Works a treat - much less hassle than using the paste/gel.

Just so you know, the bare metal looks like poo.

n.b. you can see the paint stripper top left of pic - the brand is Motorspray or something like that.

Hope it helps, :(

IMG_0137.JPG

No problem, hope it helps.

I used an old rag to wipe off most of the residue, then used an old brush to clean out the rest from in between letters and other hard-to-reach places. Once the paint blisters, it wipes away like dried cake icing - most of it just flakes away then you go back and clean the last little bits.

To clean it after stripping, I used some prepsol but most wax/grease removers will do the trick. Don't let the Repco dude talk you into buying a 4L tin. I bought a 1L and barely used 10% of it.

Cheers

Mark

ps who's the chick in your avatar? Looks familiar but I can't place it.

ps who's the chick in your avatar? Looks familiar but I can't place it.

Hmmm....hope this joggs your mind :P

Pic

I got the pics for my avatar from Need For Speed Underground :ermm:

Anyway thanks again! I will give it a try this weekend.

Cheers!

Edited by freshjive

NFSU! That must have been it. Cheers dude.

For the seals you'll need some rubber lubricant (man that sounds dodgy). Lets call it rubber grease. :laugh: How about frictionless paste?

Seriously though, if the pistons are still in the caliper, you'll need compressed air to pop them out. They are bit of a pain in the butt trying to get all four out at the same time - as soon as you pop one, you lose air pressure and have to start over.

I apologise if you know all this already, but don't bother with the 'one-man' bleeders. I tried twice and both times had a squishy pedal. Used a mate and sorted it first go. Remember to bleed the ABS once all the calipers are done.

Assuming you have the shims, make sure you apply some anti-squeal paste.

Once again, I don't mean to ask you to suck eggs, just trying to help. I'm pretty sure the R33 calipers are the same as R32 GTR - if you don't have the reco kit you could search for a thread titled "What is a caliper overhaul" and the part numbers are half-way down on the first page of the thread.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...