Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Based on my experience, having to use 2nd gear on the dyno in an auto always makes the boost look spikey. You really need to use engine rpm instead of road speed when dynoing an auto. That at least removes the torque converter slip from the equation. The same set up in a manual in 4th gear would give a 1 psi spike which no one would be concerned about.

My suggestions would be;

1. Turn up the boost, that turbo has plenty left in it. Around 22 psi is more like it. You have the bottom end to use it.

2. If you are still getting a 3 psi boost spike at 22 psi I would be looking for another boost controller. We use the PFC Boost Control Kit with plenty of success.

3. A set of 256 Tomei Poncams would be next on my list. An adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley is not necessary, based on our experience the Poncams are timed perfectly out of the box.

That and the extra boost should see you comfortably over 300 rwkw.

:laugh: Cheers :D

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

it could be a mechical auto box (VLT style) or it could be the stock box and he doesn't care about the changability of the gears and smoothness. It's covered quite cleary in the FAQ re: PowerFC and auto

yea yea.. bla bla..

just because the faq sheet says bla bla..

not being a nasty..

but i have never heard you say that you have actually been in a auto 33 with

a power fc in it.

have you?

the standard 33 trans drives exactly the same as it did with the standard ecu.

anyone that owns a auto 33 im more then happy to prove it works perfectly..

but i bet you cant prove that it dosent work....

obviously over 300 kws the trans will eventually need a rebuild with stronger clutches etc

but for $2500 for the full works and jerks racing trans upgrade including high stall converter

it could be a mechical auto box (VLT style) or it could be the stock box and he doesn't care about the changability of the gears and smoothness. It's covered quite cleary in the FAQ re: PowerFC and auto

yes you are correct i have never been in an auto r33. but thats not the point. the point is the nissans have code for the auto box in the ECU and the powerfc does not have any autologic present so it wont back off timing on gearchanges. this would have to results in different operation to that of standard

i think my plumb back, blitz bov was also bypassing at high boost so i have replaced it with another one

i had laying around, and i was able to drop the ebc duty cycle down 15 % and still make the same boost.

may have had something to do with it.

im heading back to the dyno in about an hour so i will try again with the new bov and see if it levels the boost out a bit.

1.5 bar ya reckon Gary..

that will get my missus to the shops in a real hurry... :laugh:

i just got back from the dyno..

as you can see from 18 psi to 23 psi it dosent make much more power.

is this due to the ehaust housing being to small.

the leaking bov that i fixed earlier today helped but didnt solve the problem.

im now making the same power today with the ebc set at 18psi then i was making

yesterday with it set at 21 psi..

should i get the ehaust housing machined out a bit to slow the compressor wheel down and increase flow?

post-24852-1145523305.jpg

What spec exactly is the turbo?

thats going to help a lot so the turbo tech people can get into it and see what the front and the rear are doing :D

the GCG tag states GT3071R-SP

the Garret tag states GT2835R - 56T

700382-20

its a single turbo 300zx ehaust housing with internal gate

made into the above specs.

i hope this helps

ive seen people run autos on the dyno in D with overdrive off (so basically 3rd gear).

Anyway well done on power level. Have you taken to the drag strip?

not as yet...

adelaide international raceway is in all sorts of trouble at the moment.

i think the next street meet isnt until sep or oct

I've read of other people installing GT3071Rs (in the US) on their cars, and talk about them having an anti-surge compressor cover?! I could be completely wrong, but that compressor cover isn't, is it??

For risk of sounding "ricey" but does this turbo have a particularly "whistly" induction noise when it comes on boost?

I've read of other people installing GT3071Rs (in the US) on their cars, and talk about them having an anti-surge compressor cover?! I could be completely wrong, but that compressor cover isn't, is it??

For risk of sounding "ricey" but does this turbo have a particularly "whistly" induction noise when it comes on boost?

ahh not really

it sucks like a pig thru the k&n pod filter but i wouldnt say it wistles

Are there any side affects from using the power fc on an auto??many people say they dont run like factory e.g wont kick down gears etc etc, ive been looking around at engine management for a while (i have a r32 gtst auto) and have read that "no" aftermarket ecu (including the greddy e-manage & e-manage ultimate) can cope with the factory auto ecu as it cuts ignition timing when changing gears!so my only real option is chipping the ecu or getting a safc, which im not really to keen on using!Yours is the only auto ive heard of using a power fc without any problems so some help would be much a appreciated, cheers :P

Edited by nizmo_freek
Are there any side affects from using the power fc on an auto??many people say they dont run like factory e.g wont kick down gears etc etc, ive been looking around at engine management for a while (i have a r32 gtst auto) and have read that "no" aftermarket ecu (including the greddy e-manage & e-manage ultimate) can cope with the factory auto ecu as it cuts ignition timing when changing gears!so my only real option is chipping the ecu or getting a safc, which im not really to keen on using! so some help would be much a appreciated, cheers :P

"Yours is the only auto ive heard of using a power fc without any problems"

have you heard of someone trying it and it didnt work?

there a lot of people in the world that fill everyones head with bullshit!

but they all drive manuals.

i dont own a 32 auto so i cant comment, but the 33 auto works exactly the same as

it did before i changed ecu.

at the end of the day what have you got to loose.

buy one plug it in, if it works fine then get it tuned and enjoy.

if it dosent work put it back in the box and sell it as brand new.

and get your money back..

there are heaps of guys on here that will buy it from you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...