Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm planning on using Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff when I get the time to do it.

My gearbox was rebuilt 3 years ago because of a 4th gear sincro problem would grind at anything over 4000rpm. Im having problems again but only if shifting quickly at redline. What oil should I use?

You ask like I'm an expert! :P

I have good advice that shockproof will solve your grinding problems, but there's more realisation these days that while it works great in the short term you may be shortening your box's life by using it.

Not sure if any additives like the nulon G70? will help shift quality. Otherwise just go for shockproof and when the box blows up get a new one :D

it's been a week now since i put in redline lightweight shockproof. It shows only slight improvement on my crunching problem from 1st to 2nd. i am wondering how long does it takes to show the full result. Does anyone knows?

Does R33 gearbox crunch from 1st to 2nd on a cold start normal?

Giveitall ... thats impossible to answer ... its not like an antibiotic! or Rehab... It deppends on the actual damage caused in the first place as to whether any improvment will be made....

I use it in mine and it only made small differences to my driving shifting! ITS just that i know its good protection for my fresh box ! Not a tolerence corrector

Well I'm going to use Redline MT90 (it's a 75W/90) oil without the shockproof particles.

I'll see how it goes.

You know a lot of these shift problems could be due to the clutch not fully disengaging, particularly if you have a heavier pressure plate and haven't tweaked the clutch play.

Something to look into before the oil if you are having shift problems. You need virtually the entire clutch master cylinder length used fully to change gears in an R33 with a heavier pressure plate. And it only takes 10 minutes to adjust. :P

Edited by simpletool
  • 1 year later...

Well im scratching my head now thinking what gearbox oil I should use. GTS4 r32 gearbox. Has some noise coming from it when driving, but I was told when I bought the car, that it had an aftermarket gearset in it as well. So not quite sure whether to use redline or not. Main issue is it crunches on a quick change from 4th to 5th.

  • 3 months later...
Well I'm going to use Redline MT90 (it's a 75W/90) oil without the shockproof particles.

I'll see how it goes.

You know a lot of these shift problems could be due to the clutch not fully disengaging, particularly if you have a heavier pressure plate and haven't tweaked the clutch play.

Something to look into before the oil if you are having shift problems. You need virtually the entire clutch master cylinder length used fully to change gears in an R33 with a heavier pressure plate. And it only takes 10 minutes to adjust. :)

My gear box crunch when im changing from 4th to 5th (in high rev mostly)and 5th to 4th (in high rev mostly,sometimes low revs), wil it be cuz my clutch is worn? or not disengaging properly? how would i check it?

Edit- at the moment im learning double clutching, which resolve the crunching problem, and it make feels good too.

  • 3 weeks later...
My gear box crunch when im changing from 4th to 5th (in high rev mostly)and 5th to 4th (in high rev mostly,sometimes low revs), wil it be cuz my clutch is worn? or not disengaging properly? how would i check it?

Edit- at the moment im learning double clutching, which resolve the crunching problem, and it make feels good too.

By the way, I changed my gear box oil to Redline MT90 two days ago, now the crunching problem seems to be gone :blink: ( Iwas using Penzoil or Penrite with Nulon N70 addictive) Cheers

My 2c,

I use MT90 on the boxes that still work fine, and lightweight shockproof on the ones that dont feel so good. Seems to work ok, Ive had MT90 in my R33 GTS-T box now for over 100 000km's still runs 100% pefect with serious abuse.

My 2c,

I use MT90 on the boxes that still work fine, and lightweight shockproof on the ones that dont feel so good. Seems to work ok, Ive had MT90 in my R33 GTS-T box now for over 100 000km's still runs 100% pefect with serious abuse.

Thats good to hear, only thing that stoped me using Redline ightweight shockproof is most ppl who has used it have 50/50 opinion. maybe ill use it when my gear box is very bad i guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...