Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm planning on using Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff when I get the time to do it.

My gearbox was rebuilt 3 years ago because of a 4th gear sincro problem would grind at anything over 4000rpm. Im having problems again but only if shifting quickly at redline. What oil should I use?

You ask like I'm an expert! :P

I have good advice that shockproof will solve your grinding problems, but there's more realisation these days that while it works great in the short term you may be shortening your box's life by using it.

Not sure if any additives like the nulon G70? will help shift quality. Otherwise just go for shockproof and when the box blows up get a new one :D

it's been a week now since i put in redline lightweight shockproof. It shows only slight improvement on my crunching problem from 1st to 2nd. i am wondering how long does it takes to show the full result. Does anyone knows?

Does R33 gearbox crunch from 1st to 2nd on a cold start normal?

Giveitall ... thats impossible to answer ... its not like an antibiotic! or Rehab... It deppends on the actual damage caused in the first place as to whether any improvment will be made....

I use it in mine and it only made small differences to my driving shifting! ITS just that i know its good protection for my fresh box ! Not a tolerence corrector

Well I'm going to use Redline MT90 (it's a 75W/90) oil without the shockproof particles.

I'll see how it goes.

You know a lot of these shift problems could be due to the clutch not fully disengaging, particularly if you have a heavier pressure plate and haven't tweaked the clutch play.

Something to look into before the oil if you are having shift problems. You need virtually the entire clutch master cylinder length used fully to change gears in an R33 with a heavier pressure plate. And it only takes 10 minutes to adjust. :P

Edited by simpletool
  • 1 year later...

Well im scratching my head now thinking what gearbox oil I should use. GTS4 r32 gearbox. Has some noise coming from it when driving, but I was told when I bought the car, that it had an aftermarket gearset in it as well. So not quite sure whether to use redline or not. Main issue is it crunches on a quick change from 4th to 5th.

  • 3 months later...
Well I'm going to use Redline MT90 (it's a 75W/90) oil without the shockproof particles.

I'll see how it goes.

You know a lot of these shift problems could be due to the clutch not fully disengaging, particularly if you have a heavier pressure plate and haven't tweaked the clutch play.

Something to look into before the oil if you are having shift problems. You need virtually the entire clutch master cylinder length used fully to change gears in an R33 with a heavier pressure plate. And it only takes 10 minutes to adjust. :)

My gear box crunch when im changing from 4th to 5th (in high rev mostly)and 5th to 4th (in high rev mostly,sometimes low revs), wil it be cuz my clutch is worn? or not disengaging properly? how would i check it?

Edit- at the moment im learning double clutching, which resolve the crunching problem, and it make feels good too.

  • 3 weeks later...
My gear box crunch when im changing from 4th to 5th (in high rev mostly)and 5th to 4th (in high rev mostly,sometimes low revs), wil it be cuz my clutch is worn? or not disengaging properly? how would i check it?

Edit- at the moment im learning double clutching, which resolve the crunching problem, and it make feels good too.

By the way, I changed my gear box oil to Redline MT90 two days ago, now the crunching problem seems to be gone :blink: ( Iwas using Penzoil or Penrite with Nulon N70 addictive) Cheers

My 2c,

I use MT90 on the boxes that still work fine, and lightweight shockproof on the ones that dont feel so good. Seems to work ok, Ive had MT90 in my R33 GTS-T box now for over 100 000km's still runs 100% pefect with serious abuse.

My 2c,

I use MT90 on the boxes that still work fine, and lightweight shockproof on the ones that dont feel so good. Seems to work ok, Ive had MT90 in my R33 GTS-T box now for over 100 000km's still runs 100% pefect with serious abuse.

Thats good to hear, only thing that stoped me using Redline ightweight shockproof is most ppl who has used it have 50/50 opinion. maybe ill use it when my gear box is very bad i guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...