Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Probably the very first few had ABS still as an option, but i'd check to make sure its a genuine series 2 and not really a series 1 disguised with the different bonnet and frontbar.

But concerning ABS and whether its a needed feature, I wouldn't be too stressed personally, I don't have trouble stopping without it :D All ABS does is if you even out the braking a bit more so during an emergency or in the wet it prevents them from locking up so much. If you're getting to that stage, then well I wouldn't be relying on a computer to save me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-194621
Share on other sites

Originally posted by ice180

ABS is still an option even on series 2 more had it than series one but not all. The one I have for sale has ABS

Richie is right. When I was looking for mine, 90% of the ones I looked at in Japan didn't have ABS. Seems people were too tight to pay extra for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-205153
Share on other sites

Yeah, ABS on *all* R33s is an option.

ABS was a primary concern for me, but the perfect car came up - but no ABS - never looked back. If you have the opportunity to get it, I would because it's safer, but don't hold out for it.

I reckon the first month is a bit of a milestone if you're not used to such a powerful car, so just be careful - ESPECIALLY IN THE WET.

You will hear everyone tell you that and you may not take heed, but it rained the first day I got mine and I lost the back bigtime. I was lucky no one was in the lanes to the left and right of me :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-205803
Share on other sites

I think most of the automatic will come as ABS as they're more of luxury items. Mine came with one, but I've ditched my auto and chucked in a manual gearbox 2 months ago.

The only thing if your car don't have ABS and you have to make a hard braking in the wet, never kill your pedal by stomping on it as it will lock all your wheels and slide your car even further. As soon as you hear/feel your wheel locking lift up the pressure off your foot a tad so the brake pressure is in the treshhold before locking your wheels.

Needs practice, but when done properly, you can stop as quick as an ABS equipped car. Try finding an empty street on a rainy day and do that practice until you know what amount of foot pressure you need to stop without locking your wheels.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-207493
Share on other sites

This unbelievable. u peoples think u can stop a car as good or close enough to an abs equipe car? I've been to enough race day and drive day to know one thing, human response is not even close to abs . why do u think it was ban from f1 and the times goes up. unless u can pulses ur right foot on the floor at the rate of about 100 times a second. get a car with abs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-208803
Share on other sites

I agree with Hippy. You hear alot about how a great driver can stop better without ABS. Well, most people are not great drivers, and even great drivers don't pay enough attention all the time.

I'd prefer to avoid the accident than have a seatbelt and airbag keep me safe when I have one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-208970
Share on other sites

Oh, and I should add, even on the track I prefer ABS (although full on racing is a different matter).

While you don't have to use it (ie you can stop just as well as you would without ABS), you can also be 100% sure that you aren't going to flat spot some expensive track tyres with a lock up. I've killed more tyres with flatspots when racing than I ever have worn out almost!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-208983
Share on other sites

newayz, the seriesII should have an electronically controlled LSD as well as a different interior trim, which granted can be swapped over to fool you, but you also get the dual airbags and you should be able to check here goes.... something on the seatbelts guys, i am not sure if this is right, but yeah something there is stamped with a production date. i mean there is an excellent chance that it is a series II especially if the plate has 1996 on it. and yeah be wary of the ABS cos if you are going from a rice rocket FWD to this monsta you might want the ABS especially if you have a slightly larger right foot that you have trouble holding up. also the series II dash cover (read: the fascia thingy that surrounds the stereo and climate control) is a different grain and is also more 3d than the series 1 and there is no coin box/slot thingo in it.

okay thats it from me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-210540
Share on other sites

Originally posted by NO_RSPECT

newayz, the seriesII should have an electronically controlled LSD.

Nope, this is only the A-LSD versions. It is a whole different model, not just an option.

something on the seatbelts guys, i am not sure if this is right, but yeah something there is stamped with a production date.

Problem is, that any complied car will have had its seatbelts changed so you can't really check this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-210600
Share on other sites

Yepp - Phil is spot on there. Seat belts would've/should've been changed.

A quick way of checking the date of manufacture is to look at the date on the vacume hose going to the brake booster thingy on the left hand side of the engine bay (standing at the front of the car looking in).

But the only true way is to get the VIN number and check through Nissan some how.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-210808
Share on other sites

yeah, that is very possible to check - i copied down al the details from my original compliance plate - the jap 1 -and called up some nissan dealer - cant remember which one, and they give u build date, as well as color, trans etc. should be more than enough info for u.

and i think it would be a major pain in the ass to change front lights, bonnet, front bar, dash, steering wheel, trim, rear fill panel (between indicators) etc just to trick someone, IMHO....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-210861
Share on other sites

Not going to argue the value of a good ABS system, however some of the early systems were a bit scary - as in not very well calibrated (especially for OZ conditions). I know this first hand from some of the old company cars I used to beat about in during the early nineties (in the days of my youth...sigh). My speedskyzer does not have ABS, is the system three channel or four channel, who has it, and used it? How effective is it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-210875
Share on other sites

Pretty sure it's 4 channel as it has speed sensors on all four wheels and heaps of seperate pipes coming from the cotrol doova in the engine bay.

I've only used mine twice - once was to brake hard and swerve to miss a car that pulled out (it worked a treat that time), and the other time was in the rain when I stompped on the brakes a bit hard.

I found it was fast to react and worked well, but then again, this is the first ABS'd car I've driven....

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11442-abs/#findComment-210896
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...