Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need some so if anyone wants to get a Group buy going im in.

so has anyone found out what there worth?

also a little birdy told me that some engine builders can convert hydraulic lifters to solid..

any one had any experience with this?

orly?

hrmmm, how would i go about setting the lash then since the rb20 had hydro lifters?

when the motor is rebuilt i could have the machine shop cut the valves down to size but still leaves the problem of setting proper lash and if the lifters will work with the hydro cams i have...

  • 3 weeks later...

hi peoples im pretty sure you can rape an rb26 head for the solid lifters and buckets and convert the rb25 head to solid type lifters/buckets but have to go with cams to suit that set up, it can be done ive been told by a family member whos an engine reconditioner, thinking of taking that path myself.....revrevrev

I am currently playing with Gtr buckets into an gtst head. the valves an a gtr are about 14mm longer than a gtst so a 14mm spacer will have to be made to sit between the valve tip and under the bucket. I am also looking at using the valve retainers from the intake side (exhaust valve stems are thicker than the gtst) of the gtr and the shim adjusters to make this all adjustable. I am looking at using gtr springs as well and cutting the spring seats lower into the head due to the extra length of the springs. This is all in the aim of getting past the 9mm lift limit due to coil bind, even with aftermarket springs.

I will post up in a week or so when i have some final answers and cost involved in all this work, inc cam welding and regrinding.

P.S. if using solid lifters you usually have to use a different profile on the cam.

Cheers NutR33

Edited by NutR33

nice work nutr33

my only prob is finding a gtr head thats gone to take the parts out of and ill soon be having a play as well, ive been told that theres alot of work involved[im not really that switched on to whats acctually involved in the conversion]but im sure ill be educated well after its done,im about a year into an engine build and new ideas are constantly being thrown my way and the end doesnt seem to be in sight any time soon :unsure:

Maybe place an ad in the wanted section for the parts that you want. i guess a lot of people will have springs laying aroud after upgrades on gtr's. im just using std gtr springs at the time being until i get it all set up and then look at getting some aftermarket springs so that i can rev it up a bit.

hope this helps

P.S. im doing all this with the help of Wade Camshafts in melbourne so it is not just guess work and bush machanics.

Cheers NutR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...