Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

aiight i degreased and hosed down the engine bay and like a day later my car was like goin hell slow off turns and stuff and was making the BOP BOP BOP sounds from the exaust i danno what has happened...my mates dad said water has gone into the rocker cover and etc etc....but yea how to fix aye?

cheers

Chi

hahaha

if water has gotten under the rocker cover then it prob has been mixed with the oil. which is not a good thing. check the oil cap underneath to see if the oil has white blotches.

u havent put the hose in the exhaust to clean it out have u?

yeah i think its cause the spark plugs can't fire up completely...so therefor im loosing power....hehehe yea goin to get compressed air to blow the water outa it :) yea mate nah not that stupid to put my hose into the exaust haha im not that guy that put sand in his engine hahahahaha....yea hopefully everything is goin to be fine :D...but yea scared me like hell hahah i danno howd it got under the rocker cover aye, it doesn't look like it mixed with the oil tho but im still goin to do a oil/coolant change ye hahah

Cheers

Chi

Water = steam, obviously it won't be as bad because it's not coming out at a few litres a minute, but it could have the same effect. Personally I wouldn't take the risk with all the sensors & wires you can come across.

mmm i fixed my car and serviced it put mobil 1 fully synthetc oil in and new coolant and now it runs SO SMOOTH can't even hear the engine when idleing :whistling: hahah thanks dudes for the help yea the bop bop was gorn the spark plugs where having a bath in there heheh

normally the water doesn't get in due to my sealing ontop of the rocker cover was cracked/old it got it....its ok to high pressure blast it but just try to stay away from all the electricals but a rag and degreaser is best way i think

Cheers

Chi

I've had this happen to me before when I got the car detailed. They sprayed in the engine bay and got water in the plugs. It was a fun drive home :) ... after a few days of driving it was back to normal though. If I get the car detailed now, I specifically say to leave the engine bay alone. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...